5200 may be the best adhesive ever invented.  For that reason, I never use it 
(bad experience).

From: David Paine via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Paine 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating 
with expanding foam

Thanks.   The more I look at it the messier it gets.   I'm on a mooring and 
live on solar power so this has to be better than what I could do by shooting 
foam into empty space between the inset and the cabinet.  I know that I have a 
moulded insert like Dennis describes.  I know this because when I got the boat 
(years ago), it was loose and rattling around in the cabinetry.  I fixed it (oh 
why, why?) by gluing with 5200 along the flange and clamping to the counter 
top.   The counter top is 1/2 ply with a laminate surface (no insulation, none, 
nada) and is probably screwed on the edges to the rest of the underlying 
cabinet.  The screws are, I suspect, hidden underneath the laminate.  I'm 
leaning toward cutting the countertop all the way around near the edge then 
replace after insulating from above.   Of course the ice-box extends beyond and 
underneath the side locker so a significant piece of vertical teak ply 
cabinetry will need to be removed ....   Much to ponder! 



On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


  Hi David,

  When I insulated the ice box in our C&C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it all 
apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an aluminum 1/2’ 
"angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.  They have a unit 
you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of stewing, careful drilling, 
and I poked and discovered lots of empty space, and about an inch of dried 
course insulation, sorta like that used for flower arranging.  The foam was 
injected in a few minutes, easy part of the job, and our ice lasted for over a 
week.  I built a clear plastic shelf with air-holes to keep the food out of the 
ice water, and we had a good time cruising Barkely Sound. 

  Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
  2 cents, Lee


    On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

    David, 

    Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration 

    Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1 
it's a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top of 
the molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a sister 
boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to remove the 
icebox in order to add insulation.

    Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before 
tackling adding insulation.

    Dennis C.
    Touche' 35-1 #83
    Mandeville, LA

    On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

      Someone stop me before I go too far .... 

      I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation 
for the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to 
insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart and 
possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.   The 
teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the fiddles) and 
around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, I'd like to save 
those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've noticed that much of 
the woodwork in these boats is held in place with corroded Robertson head brass 
screws and I expect to find those beneath the plugs on the teak trim.  Other 
than that, how the cabinet box is held together is a mystery to me.  Any 
suggestions and experience (woeful and otherwise) would be much appreciated!

      Best,

      David 

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