I have had my windows replaced twice in my boat's lifetime: In the spring of 
2016 and about 10 years earlier in ~ 2005 which was 10 years from her delivery 
from the factory in 1995.


Since I did not have the time (and likely the expertise!) to repeat the 
factory's method of gluing them to the gelcoat (using Plexus presumably) or the 
3M/Silkaflex tape method others have described, I had the boatyard do the job. 
(BTW I have used Plexus to hold hatch handles to the plexiglass and attest that 
the stuff is incredibly strong).


I should point out that this boatyard has a very good reputation for its 
work--in fact it built and installed my centerboard from original plans I 
managed to get from the Kingston Maritime Museum. 


I provided their crew the complete set of options regarding gluing or taping 
with 3M using the recommendations from the list and encouraged them to do it 
with one of these methods.


Nonetheless, they were reluctant and basically did not want to do the job 
unless they used their tried and true method of caulk and screws. Thus my 
windows are held in place with screws against the caulk and do not provide the 
inherent strength that the glue method adds to stiffening to the topsides just 
as they were in the first repair in 2005.


OTOH, if many glued-in windows (glue/tape/Silkaflex) need replaced on a similar 
schedule to my 'screwed-in' solution (~ every 10 years), I don't really see 
much of an advantage to the glued-in method. Further, when (not if!) my windows 
begin leaking again, I can pop them off the sealant, clean the old sealant off 
them and the gelcoat and reseal and reinstall the same windows. I doubt any 
windows glued in would be reusable but even if they were and the gelcoat was 
preserved in their removal, the reinstall is likely a 2 person job and must be 
done in the limited time that the glue or tape allows before it sets up.


I am interested as the next C&Cer in keeping my boat in a condition that is as 
close to the factory original as possible. OTOH, sometimes new methods of doing 
things are equivalent, better and/or easier than the old methods. 


This reminds me of an old expression my graduate electrodynamics professor used 
ad nauseum..." one should not be a slave to notation..." or in the present 
situation, "...a slave to an original factory method...", especially if the old 
method can be improved upon or shown to be not much better than a newer 
approach.


FWIW,


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcbd


cenel...@aol.com




-----Original Message-----
From: PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: PETER OCAMPO <bcwwka...@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 9, 2017 2:30 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 windows



Thanks. Will look into it just found article on windows on list. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 9, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:



Consider attaching the ports with 3M VHB tape instead of Plexus.  Search the 
archives for a post on this.


Dennis C.



On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 10:21 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks.

 Will use my dremmel tool and take my time  at least it's a project I can do in 
the cold  and wait till spring to put new windows in when warmer

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2017, at 11:08 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
>
> Rob
>
> That style window from C&C leaked soon after production.  Our C&C 36 bought 
> new in October 1980 had leaking problems on and off for many years during the 
> 9 seasons our family owned it.
>
> I suspect the "repaired" or "reinstalled" windows done by persons such as you 
> on this list are probably better than the originals.
>
> Mike
> formerly (way back)
> 1981 C&C 36 "Blue Horizon No. 1"
> Halifax, NS
> ________________________________________
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of robert via 
> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: January 9, 2017 12:04 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List 1983 windows
>
> Peter:
>
> My old windows were probably original C&C installed with a two part
> adhesive called 'Plexus'......it hardens over time which is probably why
> it leaks.
>
> To remove the old windows, I took a small, stiff putty knife and cut
> approx. 1" off of the blade and then sharpened the blade with a file.
> From the inside of the window, in the cabin, I gently taped the putty
> knife blade with  a hammer between the gelcoat and the window cutting as
> I went along.    Got three (3) windows out no problem.   Then the 4th
> window.....the top of that window was difficult and I made the mistake
> of touching the bottom of the window pushing it outwards causing the top
> of the window to break free taking the gelcoat with it.
>
> Now I had another job.....replacing the gelcoat and matching the
> color.....that's another story.
>
> After the windows were removed, I used a dremel tool with a fine bit to
> clean out the Plexus from the frame (side of the cabin) to accept the
> new windows.
>
> It's not rocket science but it is labor intensive to do it right.......I
> think have a step by step email of the entire project somewhere I can
> send you offline if you wish.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 342 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>> On 2017-01-09 11:50 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List wrote:
>> What did you use to remove old adhesive i your windows
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>
>
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_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

_______________________________________________

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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