Lol - tough QA team! What happened if you were late for work? Good doc, I probably read in in my AMP training in..... '86 - my first job, we were an Amp shop. And yes, we (later job) soldered and potted the amphenol and cannon connectors, crimped (only) the Reel fed terminals, heat shrunk everything, incl fancy moulded boots. (Aircraft landing gear parts and some other small contracts I don't remember.) My point was more about the slick professional appearance of the tightly heatshrinked connection, not the soldered crimp. For sure I would not solder then crimp. Agreed on the tool, and I know very few non-industry people with decent crimp tools. The tool I have is better than most, (panduit) but is not a controlled-cycle tool with precise, fitted dies, etc. This is why I prefer an uninsulated closed barrel terminal done as mentioned, and why I don't use pre-insulated terminals if I have others on hand. (given the less than perfect crimp, I doubt the crimp-nuance in the doc is relevant. ) Anyway, hair-splitting I suppose in this application.
Dave. Sent from my iPad > On Dec 11, 2016, at 1:58 PM, G Collins <[email protected]> wrote: > > Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at > the Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the > parking lot as a warning to others! We built wire harnesses for tanks, > helicopters, and fighter jets. > > I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw > your attention to the 2nd last page. > > As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if > you are buying quantities. If you only need 4 then not so great. > > A good quality crimp tool is key. > Graham Collins > Secret Plans > C&C 35-III #11 >> On 2016-12-11 2:13 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote: >> Flanged has the ends bent up and locking has a narrowing of the space >> between the fork's tines that means the terminal has to be clicked into >> place. Either works for me. Fred mentions that he prefers rings because >> they wont fall off shoudl the screw loosen. I prefer locking forks because >> I wont fumble and drop the removed terminal block screw in the bilge! (its >> the kind of thing I do...) and sometimes the terminal screws are staked into >> the terminal block and can't be removed. >> >> Ancor stuff is fine but remember they just repackage for the marine market >> and there are lots of industrial options out there if you have access or >> want to bother looking around a bit. The best (most rugged) hand >> crimp-able terminals are non insulated terminals that have a second sleeve >> of metal over the crimp sleeve. (i forget the industry term at the >> moment...) The self encapsulating insulated terminals Rick mentions are >> nice. but I think that crimping, then soldering a quality non-insulated >> terminal then strain relieving with heatshrink (to alleviate the solder hard >> spot that wicks up the conductor) is the best solution of all, and looks >> like it was done by a mil qualified harness shop. (past life...) This >> will outlast the boat and owner and never oxidize or give trouble. Doesn't >> take much longer. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >> From: Rick Brass <[email protected]> >> To: <[email protected]> >> Cc: >> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500 >> Subject: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >> From: Rick Brass <[email protected]> >> To: <[email protected]> >> Cc: >> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500 >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light.. >> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I >> think they are called “flanged”. >> >> >> >> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are >> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and >> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> Washington, NC.. >> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the “bent up” ends – I >> think they are called “flanged”. >> >> >> >> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are >> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and >> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> Washington, NC >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > <electricalTerminals.pdf>
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
