One note on terminals: regular fork terminals are NOT ABYC-approved for use, as if the terminal screw comes loose, the wire can come off. Either ring terminals or “locking” forks are okay; locking forks come in two styles, one with a “bend up” at the end of the tines, and another with a circular gap between the tines which causes the fork to snap onto a machine screw. I just prefer the security of ring terminals myself.
— Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Dec 10, 2016, at 11:09 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <[email protected]> > wrote: > > Marek; > > I can’t recall, offhand, what model C&C you have, but I presume it has a keel > stepped mast. Here is what I did when I rewired the mast on Imzadi (38 mk2) > when I bought her in 2004: > > My mast wiring has a “tail” about 6’ or so longer than the mast. I drilled a > hole in the mast that is ¾” to 1” diameter. I can’t recall which, but it > matches the size of the largest rubber grommet I could buy at the local NAPA > store. The rubber acts as a chafe guard for the wiring, which exits the mast > an inch or two above the cabin sole. > > The wiring is enclosed in a piece of corrugated plastic cable wrap used to > organize and provide chafe protection for wiring. You can get it at Radio > Shack or any good hardware store. The cable wrap is long enough to go forward > from the mast step and along the bulkhead to the bottom of the port settee > where it goes through another hole I drilled, which is large enough ID for > the end of the cable guard to poke into a locker under the forward end of the > settee. That routing keeps the cables out from under foot when we use the > table, and keeps them from getting in the way at other times. > > Inside the locker is all of the wiring connections for instruments and > lights. I used a Blue Seas connector block with ring terminals on the wires > in the boat (since they never get removed) and forked terminals on the end of > the wires in the mast. The locker is pretty small, and I only use it for the > wiring connections, the coils of extra wire length from the depth sounder and > speed transducers, and a couple of soft items I am storing. I don’t want > anything heavy shifting around as the boat moves and disconnecting ay of the > wiring. > > Rick Brass > Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 > Washington, NC > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via > CnC-List > Sent: Friday, December 09, 2016 1:58 PM > To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > Cc: Marek Dziedzic <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light.. > > Dave, > > If you have a good (i.e. reliable) way of connecting the mast wires to the > boat, when you step the mast, I would like to hear it. The worst part is that > my connector is inside the mast (under the mast foot when stepped), so you > have precisely 5 s in the spring to connect and verify if all lights are > working. For the last two years I am struggling with that. Two years ago my > anchor light was MIA, last year the steaming light. Two years ago a Sea Dog > connector disintegrated while in the mast (from heat in the summer?); last > year, there was no visible damage, but there was no connection either. I > suspect that because the old wires coming down from the mast are stiff and > the insulation is somewhat brittle, there might be something happening when I > stuff the connector and the wires in the mast cavity. The problem is that > there is no easy way to check this. Well, other than do a troubleshooting > session with the mast hanging on the masting crane (which is not, > realistically, an option – there is always a long line-up to the masting > crane). > > Marek > > From: Dave S via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, December 9, 2016 11:02 > To: C&c Stus List > Cc: Dave S > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light.. > > I think it is wisest to connect the windex light (LED) to the running light > circuit, so another masthead wire is required. The ground conductor from > the masthead anchor light could be used. > > Am going to look at my windex, but I agree with Doug, either discreet LED or > strips could be used. Only issue is reliable connection at masthead for > those of us who dismast ourselves annually. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
