I just got off the phone with the Edson factory, and while they did take a look for me, it was to no avail. According to the person I talked to, they have been cleaning house every couple of years, and getting rid of the replacement parts that are not selling. Taking up too much valuable space to keep all of it. So that was that.
Anyway, I have found out a few things that may be of some help to others. The cable in this application is of particularly large diameter because the clutch lever on the Yanmar "YSE, YSB, and YSM" series of one cylinder engines requires a lot of force to actuate. He said that Edson does not stock anything at all for cables that size any more. The ends have a 5/16 - 24 thread. From grabbing the lever by hand, free of the cable, it is about all I can do to work it. Got to be around 40 pounds. It is not difficult from friction, it is a spring force that must be overcome to toggle it. My cable is getting stiff too, but this must be why it was so big to start with. I have found exact replacements for the cable from a few sources. Some part numbers are as follows: Morse D37912-4 120 IN, this is the one in the boat, series D37912, 4 inches of travel, 120 inches overall length. Baum hydraulics can make up a cable with the same core and characteristics. They are an industrial supplier, and the industrial side of the Morse/Teleflex cable business was separated from Teleflex marine products in the course of a few recent ownership changes involving private equity firms. Teleflex now operates as "SeaStar Solutions", still in British Colombia, at least for now. The same size cable, but with a lower friction core construction, is the Teleflex Extreme (TFXtreme) series 6400CC or CCX643xx which is the part number pattern, where "xx" is the length in feet. Depends on the supplier which number they are using. You have to make sure to be careful with the part numbers (also CC695xx is the same from yet another supplier), as there are similar ones with bulkhead instead of clamp fittings on one end. The Teleflex cable sounds preferable, at a cost of $247 Canadian here in Ontario, or US$ 147 plus shipping etc. from GO2 Marine in the Eastern U.S. This is for a 10 foot cable of the same diameter and fitting requirements as what is in the boat now. http://www.go2marine.com/product/242306F/6400cc-tfxtreme-control-cables.html http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/morse_clamp_and_clamp_push_pull_cables.pdf It might just be possible to install a clutch lever in the side of the cockpit, and run a solid rod or tubular linkage to the clutch lever. The cost would be about the same if the geometry works. Will probably try to patch the existing part at least temporarily, but it is pretty clear that it won't last without at least replacing the cable. Like everything else, there are trade offs. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 20:34 Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes Steve, When I worked at Edson several years ago there was a few cable clamps left in inventory. You will need to call Edson direct on Tuesday to get one since this part has been discontinued for decades. Replace your cable at the same time because the reason the cable clamp broke was trying to hold a stiff rusty cable in place. If you don't replace the cable, you'll simply break the new clamp soon after installation. Edson also has a service bulletin on this control assembly (model 747 IIRC)they can send to you electronically. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA Sent from my iPhone On Jul 2, 2016, at 8:17 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: That is it, although the part in question is not visible in those photos. I have been able to draw the cable and associated parts out through the top, but I am still trying to figure out what to do next. It is not hard to imagine any number of ways to make a clamp, but to make one which will be strong enough to do the job and also fit back in the tube presents a real challenge. I see no obvious way to improve on the original part, and the original being made of stamped stainless steel, it will not be easy to duplicate or repair. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2016 19:36 Subject: Re: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes Does your setup look like this? http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7005 If so the part I think you are referring to I have not been able to locate. I have considered making a spare, a project that hasn't got to the top of the todo list yet. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Sat, 2 Jul 2016 10:32:14 -0400 From: "S Thomas" <sthom...@bellnet.ca> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Shift Cable Clamp woes Message-ID: <8C564B7AC9E049FCB7FCE655B472320D@mordor> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" My 1978 C&C27 has the type of shifter and throttle cable assembly that is external to the Edson pedistal, and mounted on a pair of 1 inch stainless tubes. Yesterday the cable clamp on the shifter cable broke (under a lift bridge, enroute to a race start...) and I have not been able to find any reference this particlar part anywhere. For the cable itself there are sources, but that does not help with this particular problem. The clamp has already been welded once, but to try that again would require it to be welded in situ, which is tricky at best, given the fact that it is thin stainless steel and immediately adjascent to the plastic parts of the cable. I have a lot of respect for the welding skill of whoever did the original repair. The part consists of stamped sheet metal, formed so that it fits into the annular detent on the shift cable and wraps around the cable. The ends of the sheet metal strap have right angle tabs that interleave to form an overall "D" shape, with a round head machine screw threaded through the flat surface into a flat stainless steel bar and into the annular detent on the cable. The bar extends up about 8 inches and is similarly fastened by a screw through the casting at the top. The whole thing: cable, strap, and clamp, is stuffed down inside the 1 inch stainless tubing when assembled. If anyone else has been down this road, I sure would like to hear how you handled it. A source for the part would be great. I have had no luck with online searches so far. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON P.S. - The rest of my sailing club is yucking it up across the lake, and having a great time in Ashtabula, OH. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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