A long time ago, while living in Boston I took a C&C25 to Martha's Vineyard
from Marblehead and back around the Cape over two weeks. It was fine but
camping experience is a must.
Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 1/26/16, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "Mark McMenamy" <markm...@msn.com>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 2016, 10:50 AM
Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine
would play out. During our sailing lessons we've
always been in shore, never any real rough chop. I'll
be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more
benign inlets here in FL, but at times it
for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with
and easterly wind.
I was curious if people ever take these on longer
trips? I was thinking of going down to the keys but
I'm not quite sure how feasible that is. It's just
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.
It's a little over 100 nm to get down there.
Thanks again for the info.
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
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Mark,
I can just say that it happens on
occasion and it is totally driven by the sea state and wind
direction. Because of that, I will try my best to sail
using a
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the
nose. When I need to motor due to time constraints (or
seasick crew) heading directly into the wind and waves keeps
the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea
which rolls the boat
to leeward. Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a
bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the
crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern. I’ve
learned to pick and choose my
days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting
longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in
one piece.
Chuck
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
Thanks Chuck. Mine
originally had a Vire 7 as well.
I have a 20" outboard
as well. How often do you have trouble with the engine
cavitating?
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C
25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution,
but I really don’t. My plywood backing plate inside the
transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and
it is epoxy
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½” motor
mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the
loads. I would say that the spacing of the motor mount
bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is
easily 18” wide and 13” high.
I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several
years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused
by the motor induced transom flex. All was good until I
had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the
wind. Whenever the prop would
come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom
would flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And
yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a
second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long
shaft 25” leg.
Also, my boat was originally
outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so perhaps my
transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow
doubt that C&C
would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat
basis.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
Hi Chuck,
I have small hairline
stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked the
yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked
that I bring it back when it is warmer because it's hard
to get gel coat to cure with the cold weather
we've been having. Behind my transom there is a metal
backing plate that has been added to greater support the
engine. However, it still has gotten some small cracks
outside. I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this
from happening again after I repair
the gel coat. The metal backing plate is kept in place
with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go
through the transom. The inside metal backing plate
is not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in
the fiberglass. The surveyor
thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended
removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the
fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling. But to be
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much
strain on the transom gel
coat. I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or
fiberglass perhaps added in between the mount and the
transom to disperse the weight of the mount?
Thanks for the help.
Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.
Mark
Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C
25
Fort Pierce FL
On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25
Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 since
2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a
casual racer, day
sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the
outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter
outboard, you may want to reinforce the transom behind the
outboard mount. I upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke
Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan
4 stroke (at the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market)
and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around the
motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy
conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my transom has a large
½” marine plywood backing
plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far
larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of these
boats were not designed for the weight of today’s larger
outboards. I would have opted for a smaller outboard,
but wanted the alternator output
for charging batteries while motoring as well as the
electric start for times when you need to get the motor
running NOW. We also have several areas in our cruising
grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of
4 kts so having a bit of extra
power isn’t a bad thing.
When replacing the standing
rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and re-bed the
chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to
leakage. Additionally,
many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves
on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball
valve seacocks. Same with hoses and hose clamps.
Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing might
keep your boat from sinking
one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your
boat has way more interior space, and stand up headroom for
anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft.
boats can brag of
that!
Welcome to the C&C list, as it
is a great resource and an addictive distraction during the
work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54
PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
Hi Ahmet,
I'm lucky to have had
the former owner put self tailing winches. It also has new
Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.
That's all I have for
a HIN.
Mark
On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM,
Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Not sure, but I can send
you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a
good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the transom
that actually shows the hull id. ?
I did move the stanctions
to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the
winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing
winches.
I am replacing the washers
for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at
7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Hello,
Thanks for the reply.
It's ZCC255260976. I'm not quite sure how these
forums work. Can I search for what you posted before and
save you some typing?
I actually haven't
sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging. It
should be finished early next week. My only experience
sailing is a Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks,
Mark
On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
I just bought one last
August and love it.
A good friend has one too,
so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let
me know what you want to know. I posted a few things in the
past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C&C 25
"Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at
7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Hello,
My name is Mark McMenamy. I'm a new owner of a nice
1976 C&C 25 mk I as well as a new sailer.....I'm a
reformed power boater. I was curious if anyone had
information about the designer of this boat or any stories
about her development. I was told it's
a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able to
verify this. I just love this little boat and would
appreciate to know a little of her backstory.
Thanks a million,
Mark
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