While this may not apply to windows, I used VHB tape to bond my one solar panel 
to a corrugated plastic sheet used to keep the solar panel cool on my hard 
dodger.  After a year and a half I had to replace the VHB tape because it got 
gummy from the heat and allowed the solar panel to slide aft by about an inch.  
I changed the design since so I didn't have to rely on the VHB tape.  The funny 
part is that the VHB tape was not under any significant load.  I would really 
have my doubts about the longevity of VHB tape on windows without some other 
sealant or adhesive.

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> One thing I noticed in these specs is that the VHB tapes have generally 
> better strength of bond when a dynamic load is applied and “will tend to show 
> creep behaviour with stress load acting over a long period of time (static 
> pressure). As a general rule, for static loads, approximately four square 
> inches of tape should be used for each pound of weight to be supported in 
> order to prevent excessive creep.”
>  
> I am not sure, but it seems to me that for bonding windows to the cabin top, 
> this might be an issue if the windows are curved. Curved windows would try to 
> detach themselves from the fibreglass to which they are attached. So unless 
> you have some other way of keeping them curved, the tape might not be the 
> best option.
>  
> just a thought.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 10:48 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>  
> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest tape 
> which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I have a 
> friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks like the 
> 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher adhesion for 
> the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR has the 
> highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the tape to press 
> into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more differential expansion 
> of the glass and frame.
> 
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto 
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be 
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination of 
> VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior finish and 
> sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> Rob,
>>      Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose?
>> Gary
>>  
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>> 
>>  
>>> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> Dave:
>>> 
>>> I am no VHB expert.....have never used the stuff.  I understand there are 
>>> many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.  
>>> 
>>> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>>> 
>>> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to use 
>>> it.
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>>> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>>> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my 
>>>> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After 
>>>> absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m 
>>>> planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my 
>>>> grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the 
>>>> more modern ticket to me.
>>>>  
>>>> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
>>>> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>>>>  
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Dave Godwin
>>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>  
>>>>> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done 
>>>>> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>>  
>>>>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Hi Dennis,
>>>>>>      I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like 
>>>>>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think 
>>>>>> they would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom 
>>>>>> window joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> Gary
>>>>>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>>>>>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>>>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>>>  
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via            CnC-List 
>>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were 
>>>>>>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting 
>>>>>>> blade.  Like these:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika              adhesives.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Dennis C.
>>>>>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>>>>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with 
>>>>>>>> significant gel coat damage."
>>>>>>>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>>>>>>> Mike Amirault
>>>>>>>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>>>>>>> SMSC
>>>>>>>>  
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