I am trying to reconcile this discussion with my winterizing experience last 
year.  I use a bucket of antifreeze in the cockpit and run a tube to the raw 
water intake inlet outside the hull.  I did not see any water draw before I 
started the engine (or after) so even with that pressure head, I did not seem 
to be pushing water into the engine.   Last year, it seemed to take a long time 
for the water to begin being sucked through from the bucket.  At the time, I 
attributed this to it taking a while for the engine to warm up and the 
thermostat open.  But now, when I look at the engine info I have, it looks like 
the thermostat is on the antifreeze circulating path, not on the raw water 
path.  So why would there have been a delay in the draw from the bucket?  Dave

On Oct 26, 2015, at 10:29 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>  
> good thinking!
>  
> Since the water came from behind (exhaust side), and you did not turn the 
> engine, there was a good chance that you would be able to suck most of it the 
> same way.
>  
> However, I would not put too much faith in your impeller. If the impeller is 
> good, the pump should prime from the cockpit (no need to pour any water into 
> the hose). If it did not prime on its own, it means that it is not working 
> properly. The impeller may look good, but it may slip on the shaft or the 
> pulley (the v-belt) is slipping. I would be afraid that this may create some 
> cooling problems. There is nothing you need to do for the winter, but I would 
> think hard on addressing this before the next season.
>  
> When you do your feed bucket method, do you have a shut off valve at the hose 
> from the bucket to the engine? If you don’t, adding it helps a lot, as you 
> can shut off the water (AF) feed from the cockpit and turn the engine off, 
> when the water is pumped out of the hose.
>  
> Btw. If you don’t like the idea of having any head of water in front of the 
> water pump, you can try a method with a bucket on the ground and a hose 
> leading from the bucket to the raw water intake throughhull. You can cut a 
> thread on the inside of that throughhull and screw in a barbed nipple into 
> it. The Good Old Boat Nov/Dec 2014 issue had an article on that. I have a 
> scanned PDF if you are interested.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: davepulaski via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 3:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: davepulaski
> Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!
>  
> Good news!
>  
> I was able to resolve the hydrolock with no apparent ill effect on the 
> engine!  It was quite an easy fix as well, didn't even need to mess with the 
> injectors.
>  
> Here's what I did, following a suggestion of someone on this thread:
>  
> I disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold and connected my shop vac 
> to the header outlet.   Then, with the vac running and all three 
> decompression levers open, I turned the engine by hand a few times from the 
> main pulley, then spun it a bit with the starter motor.
>  
> After closing the decompression levers, reconnecting the exhaust and setting 
> up my water feed bucket - this time in the aft cabin and NOT up in the 
> cockpit - I went for ignition.  It fired up more readily than I expected, and 
> ran great with no new vibrations or noises.  The raw water pump impeller was 
> completely intact and looked like new.
>  
> The oil was a little milky so I changed that twice, ran the motor for a while 
> to get it up to temp, then finally winterized it from the bucket.
>  
> Hooray for a lesson learned without injury or great expense.
>  
>  
> Thanks for all the advice guys!
>  
> -Dave
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
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Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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