I once worked as a supervisor in the area where windshields were installed in an automotive assembly plant. At that time the adhesives used were all moisture cured polyurethane type adhesives, and so far as I know they still are. Proper primer and application procedure was critical to getting the stuff to stick to the glass, and was also a legal requirement for the painted metal, but the degree of adhesion to un-primed paint surfaces depended enormously on the paint chemistry. In 1996 the paint chemistry was changed. Prior to that time, an accidental glob of adhesive on the paint was easy to peel off once cured, and did not damage the paint at all. It didn't stick well at all. After the paint chemistry change, the adhesive would stick like a barnacle, and any that got on a painted surface had to be removed immediately to prevent damage. The point to this story is that Sika 295 sounds like the same class of adhesive, and if it is, then the chemical makeup of the surfaces to be bonded matters a lot. I haven't used that brand, but if it specifies a particular primer or surface preparation, then I would follow the instructions to the letter.
Steve Thomas ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Paul Fountain Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 08:44 Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows When the second windows were installed, they used Sika 295 and primer also, then a Sika caulk around the windows looks great. - Kim was an artist with how well he matched the gel coat where he did repairs ... Paul Fountain Managing Director SeaSource Inc. Bookkeeping & IT Services. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 8:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows I don't know what choices in adhesives C&C had to choose from in 1984 when my boat was built, nevertheless, the one used was Plexus, which harden like resin and was the cause of my windows leaking. The windshield on my car is part of the vehicle's 'structural integrity' and it is held in place by a Sikaflex product....I used Sika 295 UV when I replaced my windows about 7 years ago.....I had my car windshield replaced about 2 years ago and I asked the guys doing it what was the adhesive they were using.....they told me it was Sika with a Sika primer and probably the only difference in the two products was the 'curing time'. The windshield guy said that they can't use a product with a 24 hour cure time.....the Sika product they used has a cure time of approx. 2 hours. I understand the logistics of the shorter cure time for the car windshield. Seven years with the Sika 295 and no issues to date. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-10-21 9:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: I just replaced the glued in ports on a small 26 footer. I put them in with LifeSeal. The manufacturer currently puts them in with silicone. The ports are around 4 feet long but the opening does have a post in the middle for strength. I can't help but wonder why not put the newer C&C ports in with a more flexible adhesive? I understand they are supposed to be structural and that stiff adhesives are conventional wisdom but is it absolutely necessary? I guess without a structural engineer revisiting any calculations that Rob Ball did, we may never know. Just idle curiosity. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:52 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: We have done the windows twice - first time the contractor used ΒΌ" - lots of issues, then had South Shore make a new set from the original templates, and they are 3/8" and have done much better - had a lot of repair work around the windows as a result of the first contractor, so could not make our own templates. Paul Fountain Managing Director SeaSource Inc. Bookkeeping & IT Services. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2015 9:16 PM To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High Maintenance (1990 C&C 37 Plus). The windows have been replaced before (not original) and are currently 1/4" acrylic. Is that the right thickness? I've seen in some places references to 3/8" windows. So were the original windows 1/4" or 3/8"? Thanks, Gary s/V High Maintenance '90 C&C 37 Plus East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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