When the second windows were installed, they used Sika 295 and primer also, 
then a Sika caulk around the windows looks great. - Kim was an artist with how 
well he matched the gel coat where he did repairs .....

Paul Fountain
Managing Director
SeaSource Inc.
Bookkeeping & IT Services.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 8:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows

I don't know what choices in adhesives C&C had to choose from in 1984 when my 
boat was built, nevertheless, the one used was Plexus, which harden like resin 
and was the cause of my windows leaking.

 The windshield on my car is part of the vehicle's 'structural integrity' and 
it is held in place by a Sikaflex product....I used Sika 295 UV when I replaced 
my windows about 7 years ago.....I had my car windshield replaced about 2 years 
ago and I asked the guys doing it what was the adhesive they were 
using.....they told me it was  Sika with a Sika primer and probably the only 
difference in the two products was the 'curing time'.  The windshield guy said 
that they can't use a product with a 24 hour cure time.....the Sika product 
they used has a cure time of approx. 2 hours.  I understand the logistics of 
the shorter cure time for the car windshield.

Seven years with the Sika 295 and no issues to date.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-21 9:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I just replaced the glued in ports on a small 26 footer.  I put them in with 
LifeSeal.  The manufacturer currently puts them in with silicone.  The ports 
are around 4 feet long but the opening does have a post in the middle for 
strength.
I can't help but wonder why not put the newer C&C ports in with a more flexible 
adhesive?  I understand they are supposed to be structural and that stiff 
adhesives are conventional wisdom but is it absolutely necessary?  I guess 
without a structural engineer revisiting any calculations that Rob Ball did, we 
may never know.
Just idle curiosity.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:52 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have done the windows twice - first time the contractor used ΒΌ" - lots of 
issues, then had South Shore make a new set from the original templates, and 
they are 3/8" and have done much better - had a lot of repair work around the 
windows as a result of the first contractor, so could not make our own 
templates.

Paul Fountain
Managing Director
SeaSource Inc.
Bookkeeping & IT Services.

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2015 9:16 PM
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com<mailto:captnga...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows

I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High Maintenance 
(1990 C&C 37 Plus).  The windows have been replaced before (not original) and 
are currently 1/4" acrylic.  Is that the right thickness?  I've seen in some 
places references to 3/8" windows.  So were the original windows 1/4" or 3/8"?

Thanks,
Gary
s/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~

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