There are a few other options to consider. Both to be used when on the hard.
1. Cut a thread in the raw water intake through-hull (from the outside) and screw in a nylon hose barb. Attach a length of a hose to it and drop the hose into a container with antifreeze. Run the engine until the pink goes out the other end. Here is a link to the PDF (a scan from the Good Old Boat) https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7h6hus4n5zutty/Winterizing.pdf?dl=0 . 2. A standard way, but let’s you bring the engine to the working temperature on the hard. Look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU Btw. a couple of years ago, when I suggested using a tee on the raw water intake at the Sailboat Owners Forum, I got my head chewed off by many respondents. The idea was that this tee is below water and as such it creates another weak point. Especially, if you sail in sea water (salt), you better use a proper bronze tee (not brass) or Merelon. Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Wagner via CnC-List Sent: September-28-15 17:20 To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: Don Wagner Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great. If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm. then: Shut engine off. Close inlet seacock. Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco). Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter. Use a funnel if necessary. When pink antifreeze appears at the exhaust, Shut off engine and replace filter lid. This system has worked well for me for > 40 years with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41. Remember to open the seacock in the Spring. Winterizing the water tanks is another story. Don Wagner C&C 41 CB Der Baron West River MD I From: David Knecht via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: David Knecht <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake My solution is simpler. I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake. I got about 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck. I then start the engine and wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom. It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts. I am presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow? Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Listers, I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose in a tight little area. Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _____ _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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