> and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a replacement part or 
> modifying the existing serrations

My ARCO 40 winches are chromed bronze. I took them to a chrome plating shop and 
had them stripped and returned.
( Mayfair Plating   http://mayfairplating.com )
A machine shop lightly knurled them, and I cleaned up the work a bit with a 
small hammer and carbide scribe.
Mayfair plated them and did not polish the drum area.

The result is a "knobby" finish that is not abrasive. Works well. Cost was 
under $300 a couple of years ago.

The lowest part of the drum was not knurled but dimpled with a rounded punch, 
no sharp edges. It releases
the sheet quickly when pressure has been relieved, and does not prevent the 
line from climbing up the drum.

I most conditions three wraps will work with a 155% genoa. Above 16 kts four is 
required. With five wraps I can
tail and grind at the same time solo.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1





Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 15:06:39 -0400 
From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus list winches 
Message-ID: <1c7570b3-264e-4d4f-8cc1-b361f4096...@gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
I trim main on a Swan 42 with pretty well maintained winches, clutches and 
line.  We are constantly fighting slippage when anything gets slightly worn.  
The main sheet winches take 5 wraps minimum when going upwind or they will 
slip.  High tech line is great, but it is slick stuff.   
 
Those multiple wraps seem to get a lot more grippy in ducking situations - and 
the Swan 42 has a very skinny rudder. 
 
Tim 
Mojito 
C&C 35-3 
Branford, CT 
 
> On Jul 27, 2015, at 2:24 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
>  
> On Calypso with her 1970 Barient 36 primaries and the slippery hi-tech sheets 
> we need 5 to 6 wraps to reduce slippage.  With older well-worn sheets (used 
> for deliveries and cruising) we can get back down to 3 to 4 wraps.  To avoid 
> unpleasant surprises when tacking with 5 to 6 wraps on the winch we practiced 
> the best way to clear the sheet off the winch and insure it runs clear.  
> After each tack we ?fake down the line? starting at the winch to clear any 
> twists induced by the extra wraps. 
>   
> The 1970 Barient?s drums have been worn smooth over the decades of heavy use. 
>  They are not self-tailing winches.  I do plan to roughen up the drums a bit 
> by dimpling the surface with a nail set and hammer.  This project falls well 
> behind the current deck restoration efforts already in progress. 
>   
> On Sailing Anarchy either in the Fixit or Cruising forums there is a topic 
> thread regarding how to roughen up a winch drum either DIY or using an 
> outside service. 
>   
> Martin DeYoung 
> Calypso 
> 1971 C&C 43 
> Seattle 
>  
>  
>   
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 7:46 AM 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard; patrici...@cogeco.ca 
> Subject: Stus-List Stus list winches 
>   
> Hi Herold.  
>  
> Sounds obvious but I'll say it anyway:  Have you tried 4 wraps? 
>  
> I read somewhere that the "Correct" number of turns is 4.  On my boat it's a 
> necessity, when It's blowing, 3 wraps is a waste of time and effort, they all 
> slip. 
>  
> 4 turns gets it done.   
>  
> -Francois Rivard 
> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
> Lake Lanier, GA     
>  
>  
>  
>  
> On Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 12:41 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via 
> CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
>  
> >   Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my 
> > 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are 
> > three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a 
> > predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a 
> > common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a 
> > replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are 
> > relatively new, and only one winch has this problem. 
> > Harold 
> > Celtic Spirit 
> > Hamilton, ON. 
> _______________________________________________ 
>  
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
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Message: 8 
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 15:40:23 -0400 
From: Peter Delean <padluckypie...@gmail.com> 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Subject: Stus-List Original oven and propane stove removed 
Message-ID: <5505c5a1-2654-409c-a539-99dba6c72...@gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain;     charset=us-ascii 
 
 I have removed the gimballed propane stove and original oven (the stove fits 
into the top of the oven) from my 1980 C&C 30 mk 1 to make more storage room on 
the boat. 
 
The oven has never been used, and the original alcohol stove was replaced with 
a much newer two burner propane stove within the last ten years. It may have 
been used once or perhaps never as well. It looks new. Color is brown. 
 
I'm not sure if there is any interest in these items, but before I scrap them I 
thought I would check with the Forum members. 
 
I am located in Penetanguishene, but can deliver to Toronto quite easily. 
 
Price is negotiable. 
 
Peter Delean 
Drifter 2 
Penetanguishene, ON 
 
 
 
 
 
------------------------------ 
 
Message: 9 
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2015 18:19:26 -0300 
From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing paint 
Message-ID: <55b6a05e.7070...@eastlink.ca> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
 
A cleaner method is dry ice blasting 
 
Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 
 
On 2015-07-27 9:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: 
> 
> Sandblasting or soda blasting 
> 
> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of  
> *Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 26, 2015 5:45 PM 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Bev Parslow 
> *Subject:* Stus-List changing paint 
> 
> Using micron csc at the moment and really not that happy with it. To  
> put on a harder paint (non ablative) do I need to take everything off  
> and start again? What is the easiest way to get rid of the paint? 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
 
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Subject: Digest Footer 
 
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 114, Issue 57 
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