Paul, Thanks. I already put a vent in the new hatch so I'm committed to the
Bomar. Will do that if there is a next time. It would have been worth the
extra $$.
I'll cut up to the line with a carbide grit blade in a jig saw then finish from
the top with a flush cut router bit that Fibreglast sells. In my first attempt
I think there was too much material for the router to handle.
Tom
On Friday, March 27, 2015 8:49 AM, Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca> wrote:
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{}#yiv4586283875 Tom, when I did Perceptions (85 33-II) hatches I used Lewmar
Ocean series that deck mounted. The corners fitted the ones on the openings
better than the Bomars I removed. Paul Fountain Managing Director SeaSource
Inc. Bookkeeping & IT Services. From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 8:46 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List New foredeck hatch The hatch repair shop (Hatchmasters)
suggested that in my case I might be better of replacing my Bomar foredeck
hatch instead of sending to him to rebuild. It was a good conversation and I
appreciated his product knowledge shared honestly. So I purchased the closest
Bomar model from the 1039 series. My issue is the old hatch sits on top of
the deck, but the new one has a flange. To fit the flange plus Bomar's trim
ring I need to enlarge the hole by 3/4 inch (3/8 each side). I decided to use
a router and made a template. Tried that yesterday and found the deck is
tough, with solid epoxy between the skins. The router basically bounced off.
I did it from underneath because the hatch sits in a recess topside. I
probably won't try that again as I couldn't the router. Before I hack up my
deck and any body parts, checking with this group for comments or ideas?
Thanks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae 1984 C&C 29-2 Douglaston, NY
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