I replaced my hatch gaskets with 5/8-inch round gasket material and it wouldn't 
fit properly in the grooves in the hatch frame and I couldn't close the hatches 
without breaking something--so, I went back to 1/2-inch as it was originally 
designed.  (I've described this on one of my blogposts.)

When the hatch seals age, the rubber gets hard and brittle and no longer is 
elastic enough to make the seal--its not a bad design.  Mine were 30+ years old 
when I replaced them.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Mar 25, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> I know this question came up in 2006 
> (http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2006-May/002846.html ), 
> but that's 9 years ago and the story may have changed since then. 
> 
> I'm getting to work on a few leaks in our boat, and the galley + head hatches 
> (LF38) come first. 
> 
> The previous thread recommended Clean Seal, or direct from Atkins & Hoyle 
> (for the more expensive option). I had trouble finding the part # on Clean 
> Seal though. Are those two still the best options?  
> 
> Here's are some pics of the galley hatch: 
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=181
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=179
> http://svviolethour.com/?attachment_id=180
> 
> The current gasket material actually doesn't look that bad, it just doesn't 
> seat well - so unless I'm very careful to cram it in the right spots we get 
> leaks. I almost wonder whether it's just the wrong size/shape for the hatch? 
> 
> Would something like the Bomar Hatch gasket material (5/8" in an extruded 
> format or 9/16" in round) on Defender possibly work?
> 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290165&id=1230878
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 LF38 S/V Violet Hour
> Seattle, WA
> 
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