My experience with C&Cs and my own mooring lead me to believe they did a good job anchoring deck hardware. Chafe is your enemy, not the cleats pulling out.
Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 9:46 PM To: 'Paul Baker'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring If your 27 is like my 1975 25, the foredeck is cored with ¾ marine plywood. I have a central cleat with a teak backing plate. There are chocks on either side of the stem fitting on my 25, near the bow. When the 25 lived on a mooring back in the 90s (for about 4 years), I had two equal length pendants on the mooring ball. Each had an eye in the end. I used a pick up stick on a float that I used to hold the eyes together when I was away from the mooring, and to make picking up the mooring much easier. One of the pendants was routed through each chock, with the eyes of both pendants over the central cleat. Nylon webbing over the pendants where they went through the chocks. Never had a problem, even in strong Noreasters in Delaware Bay. I wouldnt use this system in a hurricane, though. For hurricanes (5 since I moved to NC, plus 5 or 6 more near misses) I take the boat up a creek where the wind will have little or no fetch. Two anchors go from the bow out at 120 degrees, with the bow pointed in the direction that should see the greatest wind. (I think of this as upstream, though it is usually actually downstream of the normal current in the creek.) Both rodes come through the chocks and are cleated on the central cleat. The tails of the rodes do go back to the mast, where they are tied off as insurance against failure of the bow cleat. A third anchor is set aft (downstream) to keep the boat from swinging and to keep it in place when the wind and current reverse after the eye of the hurricane passes. This has worked for me in local winds up to about 80 knots. One time I came back to retrieve my boat after a storm, and found two other boats hanging on mine. Boat 1 had dragged and fouled the anchor of boat 2, then both dragged down on me. The tangled anchor rodes got caught on my bow, and I had one of the wandering boats on either beam of my boat. Based on my experience, you may find the original cleat installation by C&C quite adequate for your needs. I would make sure that you have a good chock on either side of the bow, since you indicate you do not have them now. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Baker via CnC-List Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 8:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring So, I am going to be moving my boat from a nice, safe and secluded slip, to a mooring buoy out in the harbour. Yes, the mooring is big enough, yes I will be using at least 2 unequal pendants of good quality (probably at least 3/4"), and yes I will be using chafe guard where appropriate. Assume also that any hardware would have backing plates as large as practically possible. My current deck hardware consists of a central 6" or so cleat, with a small teak backing plate. An anchor roller of unknown quality and fit (I have never used it), and a small chock that serves no purpose since the hawse pipe blocks a fair lead from the cleat to the chock. Deck is balsa cored glass, toerail is standard C&C, so an aluminum L section perforated rail bolted though the deck and hull on roughly 3-4" intervals. Basically, whatever I do is going to require a fair amount of work. Given this, I can't decide on the best route. 1. Try to find some way of putting a cleat on the rail at each side of the bow - this will likely involve fabricating some sort of mounting block, bolting the cleat to that, and then through the rail/deck. 2. Fit some chocks (which will likely involve cutting the vertical part of the L section off) and replace the central cleat with a bigger one, with a bigger backing plate. 3. Fit a bow eye and moor to that - this might involve running a temp 3rd mooring line to the deck cleat and then releasing the shackle(s) from the dinghy, I haven't got on the boat to see if it's feasible from there. 4. Something else I haven't thought of yet. I'm thinking that option 3 might actually be the better route - doesn't involve disturbing the toerail at all, and while not the most convenient, it might have some advantages, namely much less chance of chafe, and a lower attachment point gives me better scope, plus I'd only have to drill two holes through glass. I kind of need to make a decision in the next day or three so that I can get the bits and get going, boat will need to be on the mooring for April 1st, so I have two weekends after this one. Mooring will be in Tsehum Harbour, in Sidney, BC. No hurricanes here, 40kts is the highest gust speed recorded in Sidney in the last 10 years. What would my fellow C&C'ers suggest? Cheers, Paul Orange Crush 1974 C&C27 MkII Sidney, BC
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