It was due to the switch, it was brand new 10A panel mount toggle switch. I had re-wired my entire boat prior to my fridge installation. I kept the panel but put new switches and panel mount AGC fuse holders next to each. When you say “too many other items on it”, it sounds to me like you are worried about positive feed to the panel. Old C&C 38 wiring is not designed for what we install on the boat nowdays. So that would be a good place to look if you run into problems.
I would have a DMM handy and once you’re done and fire up the fridge, measure voltage on terminals at the Danfoss. Load has to be running for you to measure voltage drop. It might not be easy with the way most people connect their wires because terminals end up getting covered. On mine, I have a terminal block on the bulkhead within 6 inches of my fridge. Instead of using those female crimp terminals to connect to Compressor, I soldered marine wire to Compressor + and -, and on the other end of 6” wire I put ring type crimp terminal to connect to terminal block. So these “pigtails” are part of the compressor but I never have to worry about that connection on the compressor, which in my case is hard to reach and prone to connectivity issues, voltage drops, vibrating off, etc etc. If your drop is 0.5V to 1V when compressor is running that might be an issue. When your battery is at say 12.3V, compressor will see 11.3V-11.7V and will shut the fridge off “to preserve the battery” . I’m not sure if and at what voltage isotherm set the cutoff point. To avoid this, run fresh line, like you said AWG10 all the way to a known “good” node. If you don’t know conditions of your positive wire between battery terminal and panel mounted switch for the fridge, then run a fresh 10AWG from panel to a high buss bar capable of feeding everything that is connected to it. Every load should be appropriately fused. So 100Amp fuse will likely not protect against fire causing fault caused by your fridge. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI From: Joe Scott [mailto:joseph.sco...@icloud.com] Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 7:39 PM To: Petar Horvatic Cc: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel Thanks, I bought an Isotherm 2501 which also has a BD50 compressor. I was planning 10AWG wiring and running back to the ground bus bar. I will keep in mind what you experienced with the main panel if I have issues although the PO took a lot of stuff off of the main panel. Do you think you lost voltage due to the age of the panel or too many other items on it. The PO of my boat put a 100 amp line to a blue sea fuse panel at the nav station for all the electronics on the boat. Thanks Joe On Mar 12, 2015, at 10:06 AM, Petar Horvatic <phorv...@gmail.com> wrote: Hi Joe, Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor. Make sure your fridge wires are good gauge. I ended up running 2x10AWG. Two 10AWG for positive and two for return. Any by return I mean not just to a nearest ground. Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar. My main culprit for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. After few months of headaches and troubleshooting, I ended up re-purposing the switch. Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install in the spring and take out in the fall. For me, there is no other way to shut off the fridge. The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch was the main culprit. I left it as it could only help. Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your loads. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM To: Joseph Scott; CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost Plus. <https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover <https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus> https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus Dennis C. On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List < <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was expecting a bar or something. Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical project. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass < <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: > > Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward, > and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If > different from yours, just ignore this email.) > > On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the > top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of > these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One > of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down > to the battery wire connection on the engine block. > > The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all > switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point. > > > Rick Brass > Imzadi 1976 C&C 38 mk 2 > Hull # 049 > Washington, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto: <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph > Scott via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM > To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel > > Hey All > > I am looking at installing a DC refrig system. The old one I pulled out was > AC so I need to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it > a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative > or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel. Shouldn't it be there > somewhere? > > Thanks > > Joe > > Sent from my > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ Email address: <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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