This is from an almost 10-year old test, but it should be still true: A study done by Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue looked at different penetrating oils to see which one did the best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best! Here's the summary of the test results:
Penetrating oil .......... Average load None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Marek From: robert via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 12:20 PM To: Steve Thomas ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tool recommendation Steve: Advice, that from my experience in these situations, I would agree with. If the bolt won't turn, anything less than a perfect fit will begin the 'stripping process' which will ultimately make the job more difficult. David, I have tried this 'home made penetration concoction' with success......by volume, half and half of power steering fluid and acetone......and make sure if you try this, it gets on the parts you want unseized and not on other parts, like hoses, belts, etc. I used an 'eye dropper' which I found very controllable and exact.....almost no spillage. I loosen the seized bolts on my mixing elbow and exhaust flange with this concoction before I got into trouble with , maybe a broken bolt head. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-09 11:43 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: I would NOT try to use an open end wrench of any kind to loosen a bolt that is really stuck. There is too high a probability that you will just round off the head and make your task even more difficult. Use some kind of closed wrench, either the box end of a combination wrench, or a socket, preferably a six point. From your description it sounds like a socket is out of the question, which is too bad. I would not try to use any kind of one size fits all or adjustable for breaking it loose either. I have never yet seen one that will reliably transmit torque as good as a solid lump of metal. Once the bolt is broke free there are many options. I like the box end wrenches that have the ratchet built in, in situations when a socket wrench cannot be used. They are almost as good as combination wrenches for tight fitting situations and the ratchet makes them a lot more convenient to use. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII ----- Original Message ----- From: David Knecht via CnC-List To: CnC CnC discussion list Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 10:12 Subject: Stus-List Tool recommendation I was at the boat yesterday and tried to take the heat exchanger off the engine (Universal M4-30) so I could refurbish the seals and make sure it is clean (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). One bolt came off easily but the one on the starboard side is a challenge. I cannot get a socket on it because something from the engine or transmission is partially blocking frontal access. I found my wrench selection on board is less than adequate and I need to upgrade. I tried with a short 1/2" open end wrench and was able to get it on, but could not budge the bolt. I left it sprayed with penetrant hoping that will loosen it. I looked at other wrench types to see what would be useful in this situation and came upon this ratcheting wrench I had not seen before: http://www.amazon.com/Alden-Wrench-56038-Ratching-Open-End/dp/B002VEC9XE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425909762&sr=1-1&keywords=alden+ratchet It looks like something useful to have on the boat as the clamping action should work on both metric and SAE, it is stainless and it ratchets. Has anyone tried something like this? The other type I am considering is the flex head ratcheting wrenches: http://www.amazon.com/Husky5-Pieces-SAE-Flex-Ratcheting-Wrench/dp/B00CBFVKT2/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1425910197&sr=1-4&keywords=ratcheting+flex+wrenches Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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