My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was
paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws
involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the
windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure.
Some of them are beginning to leak again and over the years I have seen some
spitting of the fiberglass on the inside around the windows.
I think this was a result of hull stresses while sailing.
I have solved this with thickened epoxy and a pressure clamp to squeeze the
splits together while the epoxy cured.
My question for the list is if I decide the windows should be replaced again,
should I bite the bullet and go with the Plexus/glue
route or return to a glued and screwed solution, which the first repair seems
to have been.
Since the factory window installation began leaking early in the boats history
(5-10 years), I am not sure the windows were installed with the
best solution originally so returning to a similar fix seems at least
counter-intuitive.
Further, I am less interested in a 'pure, original solution' fix than a simple
fix that works, which the original fix did for ~ 12 years. Since most
of the repair cost is likely to be in the labor involved (not the cost of the
windows), any solution will likely cost about the same.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com>; cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Thu, Feb 12, 2015 9:22 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less
stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker
to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a
similar thread has been lost here.
The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to
stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.
Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 years
on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when removing old
portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.
Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And also a
PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.) I used Sika 295 on
my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which are bedded in
rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains
flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've gotten the
impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few years, and
polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at the stress
points.
As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions and
I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum frames. I
just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights were glued
in by C&C in the first place.
Rick Brass
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 3M
fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very pleased
with the end result.
All the best,
Edd
-------------------------------
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
-------------------------------
914.332.4400 | Office
914.774.9767 | Mobile
-------------------------------
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need the
screws/bolts.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by
screws? What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that would
"clamp" the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?
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