Just a note, a vibrating saw with a flexible caulk cutting blade might make port removal easier.
Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 8, 2015, at 9:03 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Rex: > > Below is a description of the window installation project on our C&C 32 done > some years ago....I have posted this here several times so for the C&C > listers that have previously read this, use your 'DELETE' key. Trusting this > might help and don't use 3M 5200. > > Our 1984 - 32 had original side cabin windows that leaked.....no matter > what I tried to stop the leaks, it didn't work. The last straw was when > we put new upholstery on the boat in 2009....I couldn't put up with > leaks any more. > > So in the Spring 2010, while the boat was still under the white > shrinkwrap cover, the decision was made to install new windows. I first > asked some of the contractors around the boatyard what they would charge > to do the job.....most said they wouldn't do it because the windows > don't have frames and/or screws.....two problems for the > contractors....without frames and/or screws, the job is more time > consuming and hard to provide an estimate of time, and second, without > frames and/or screws, they can't guarantee the windows will stay in > place. I must warn you, this is a time consuming job. > > Find a source for your new windows....make sure they will cut the new > ones for you.....take your old ones to be used as templates. I used the > same material (acrylic) and color as the old windows. > > To remove the old windows (OWs), I took a narrow putty knife and cut > about an inch off the blade and then sharpened the blade with a file. > From the inside, I cut out each window with the putty knife and a > hammer. Three windows came out without incident.....then shit happened > on the port, forward window......I got the sides and bottom cut but I > couldn't easily cut the top of that window. The original adhesive C&C > used was two part plexus and after 25 years it hardens like resin.....as > careful as I was I still managed to push the bottom of the window out > causing the top to come loose and take a strip of gelcoat with it. > Another repair job and another story, and another reason why the > contractors don't like to provide an estimate on these jobs......you > don't know for sure what you are getting yourself in for. > > OWs out...cleaned them up and took them to Sabic Polymer to have new > windows cut.....same thickness, material, color. The new windows (NWs) > will have paper on both sides....don't remove the paper. > > Now to clean up the frames....the prep is very important....I used a > drummel tool with a fine bit to remove most of the old adhesive, then a > palm sander, then hand sanded. Filled any imperfections in the frame > with polyster resin bought at an automotive store. When the frames are > cleaned, it is time to place the NWs into them (dry, no adhesive) to > determine the actual fit. > > Place each NW into its respective frame and from the inside, draw a line > with a marker along the inside of the frame onto the paper on the NW. > You will need to have someone hold the NW from the outside or have the > NW braced...I will get to the bracing shortly. The inside paper along > the line must be cut from the window with a razor blade or sharp utility > knife. It is this part on the NW that will be glued to the frame. I > repeat, it is a slow and labor intensive job.....patience is required. > > When the inside paper along the line has been cut and removed, there > will be about an inch of NW exposed......rough up this exposed glass > with sand paper. > > With a good quality masking tape, tape the frames both inside and > outside...do a good job with this as it is important for cleanup. Also > have plenty of rags for cleanup and a solvent like Varsol.....if you use > Sika as the adhesive, it is black and messy. > > Now you are ready to begin installing the NWs. I researched what > adhesive to use and I went with Sikaflex 295 UV and if you choose this > as well, make sure you get the Sikaflex primer.....it is expensive, but > don't, I repeat, don't do this without using the Sika primer. > > Two tubes of Sika 295 will be sufficient......I had both tubes opened, > each in a caulking gun.....one tube I had the end cut to produce a > 'triangle bead'.....the second tube had the normal small bead. > > Take your Sika primer and apply to one frame at a time......then apply > the primer to the NW where you cut the paper from. Read the > instructions carefully and watch the time between applying the primer > and then the adhesive......I think you should wait about 10 to 20 > minutes maximum. > > Take the caulking gun with the triangle bead and apply liberally to the > inside of the NW.....then take the second gun and apply a bead of Sika > all along the 90 deg. angle of the frame. Use lots of adhesive.....when > you fit the NW into the frame, you want adhesive coming out all around > the window/frame.....as such, there will be lots of adhesive and > hopefully no voids between the NW and frame. I did not use spacers > between the window and frame. I know it is recommended, I actually had > the spacers but thought against it. For me, it was just another place > for problems to occur down the road. Just make sure you use lots of > adhesive to achieve at least an 1/8" thickness. > > Now, that the NW is in place, you have to brace it to let the adhesive > cure. Beforehand, I went around the boatyard and collected pieces of 2" > X 4" that members were throwing away from winter covers and cut them > into 23.5" pieces......12 pieces in total.....3 for each window. Once > the window was in place, I would put 3 pieces of the wood against the > window and braced the bottom against the toerail. ON each piece of > wood, I placed a flat rock/brick about 7 to 10 lbs. each to keep the > window firmly braced. > > As soon as the NW was firmly braced, remove the masking tape both inside > and outside before the adhesive cures. Once it begins to cure, it will > make removing the tape a messy challenge. > > After the tape is removed, remove the paper on the inside of the NW > being careful not the get the adhesive on anything. Leave the outside > paper on until after the braces are removed. I let mine cure for two > full days before removing the wooden braces. > > One window done and three more to go. > > After all the wooden braces are removed, you can remove the outside > paper and do any finishing work with a razor blade or utility knife > removing any excess adhesive. > > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 1984 > Halifax, N.S. > > > > > > On 2015/02/07 8:18 PM, Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List wrote: >> We have a relatively new to us 1985 41. The windows and hatches >> had been replaced by the previous owner. Hatches were done right, the side >> windows were bedded in silicone, not right. I had to re-bed one of them >> already but did not get all traces of the silicone off so it did not take. >> Need to do it again as soon as possible which will involve removing the >> window, scraping clean and then wiping the cabin side with acetone and >> re-bedding with 5200. The question is – there are no mechanical fastenings? >> Should I add screws every 4” or so or create some sort of method to press >> the windows in place while the 5200 sets? Anyone come up with the perfect >> jig to do this or is it better to add screws? Large custom bar clamps? >> >> Rex & Jennifer Delay >> www. Ghostlake.com >> www.ghostlakesailing.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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