It's quite possible that many layers of teak oil can impart that reddish
hue, or like David says, cherry flavoured oil. The older boats do seem to
have darker teak than the later ones, whether because of age or because the
process was changed as tastes went away from the "teak cave" look.
I want to varnish the steps, not oil them, so a pre-stain is necessary. I
was considering an oxalic acid bath to lighten up the steps a bit, but
after due deliberation, I quite like the richness of the current stain.
First coat of varnish goes on today.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 20 January 2015 at 09:17, David Blair via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> wrote:

> I have also found that Watco Danish Oil Cherry is an exact match for the
> original on my 1990 34+.  They may have used something else earlier as mine
> seems to have more of a reddish hue than I have seen on other older C&Cs.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
> Brass via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 20, 2015 6:51 AM
> *To:* Nate Flesness; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Teak stain?
>
>
>
> On my new cabinets I've use Watco Danish Teak Oil ( which my friend who
> does wooden boat restoration says is the very best you can buy) and one or
> two coats on the new teak exactly matches the old factory. All the teak on
> my 38 mkII is oiled, not stained and varnished.
>
>
>
> I have been using Starbright teak oil from WM to maintain the teak on both
> the 25 and the 38, but wil use Watco in the future. Particularly since I
> found someone who sells quarts on EBay for half the local price and less
> than the Starbright.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Jan 19, 2015, at 09:21, Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A lister (whose name I've lost) posted this hard-won formula a few years
> ago. I have used it several times, and its a perfect match to the factory
> finish (which is definitely a warm brown stain) on my 1980 30-1.
>
>
>
>   Minwax Wood Finish (Stain)
>
>   1 part Provincial (211)
>
>   2 parts Golden Pecan (245)
>
>   2 parts Colonial Maple (223)
>
> Mix, apply, wipe off.
>
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 12:19 AM, David Blair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Jim I had the same question as one could see bits of stain onto the backs
> of some pieces. The old guy at the Lumberworld on Quadra took one look at
> it and reached for the Watco Danish Oil Cherry and it matched perfectly on
> the unstained back of an original piece.  Likely they used that product to
> get more consistent color across the varying teak tones. I used it on my
> last little teak project – 1 or 2 coats – excellent results. Cheers
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> Watts via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 18, 2015 8:27 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Subject:* Stus-List Teak stain?
>
>
>
> I have our companionway steps home for refinishing, and have just had to
> sand through a layer of what appears to be mahogany(ish) stain to get to
> the bare teak. Looking around the boat, it looks like it may have the stain
> on every teak surface. Anyone know anything about what particular stain
> they used?
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
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