Touche's aft handrails are screwed from underneath with flat head screws.
The screws have finish washers for support against the headliner.

I've removed and re-bedded them a couple times.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off
> the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone
> know how they come off??
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan
> Mccorison via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM
> *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
>
>
>
> There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass
> problems. This guy is great source for  the do it yourself person.
> www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>     Joe,
>
> I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad
> is hollow or not.  It may well be hollow.
>
> I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole.  That will fill
> the hollow.  Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to
> 3/4 inch around each hole.  That will create a nice void with a bottom into
> which you can inject some thickened epoxy.  Once set, the epoxy should form
> a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener.
>
> My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new
> ones are a bit more square than the originals.  Looks like he simply routed
> the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak.
>
> I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be
> re-attached and plugged.  The area around the plug never seems to match
> once you sand the plug down and finish it.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak
> grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks
> like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years
> of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off,
> sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some
> Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly
> vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of
> the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a
> wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong
> or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no
> chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the
> deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water
> out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back
> on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that
> is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My
> idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood
> dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that
> won't have a way to leak.
> Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found
> sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it
> matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles
> aft are another project.
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>
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