Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow.
I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak > grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks > like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years > of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, > sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some > Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly > vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of > the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a > wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong > or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no > chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the > deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water > out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back > on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that > is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My > idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood > dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that > won't have a way to leak. > Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found > sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it > matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles > aft are another project. > > Joe Della Barba > Coquina > C&C 35 MK I > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
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