Sorry y'all,  Dwight and I inadvertently took a good discussion on not
switching the batteries off list.  Its a bit of a long thread now but I
think we would both like to hear what others think.

Josh
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com>
Date: Sep 28, 2014 10:05 PM
Subject: RE: Stus-List Boat Batteries
To: "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com>
Cc:

Follow the link for a pdf excerpt from Don Casey's book Sailboat
Electronics Simplified.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yY1NHV01vMXJmZUk/edit?usp=docslist_api

It looks as though you may be right about the switches being make before
break.  The concern is having the user accidentally switch to off.  I guess
as long as you always go 1 to ALL (away from off) then you are probably
safe.  Then again, Murphy sucks.

Josh
On Sep 28, 2014 9:25 PM, "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

>    I did not realize that the conversation had gone off list, my mistake
> again...did not realize you responded only to me when I asked the question
> about what you advised...I believe that I posed my question on your advice to
> the whole list so maybe some others will chime in
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* September 28, 2014 10:12 PM
> *To:* dwight
> *Subject:* RE: Stus-List Boat Batteries
>
>
>
> Others won't shed light if we continue to keep this conversation off list.
>
> I'll try to find my resource.
>
> Josh
>
> On Sep 28, 2014 9:00 PM, "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Sorry, Josh, my mistake. Looked down and saw Jonathan's name and missed
> your signature line in the thread... but since I have been doing what you
> said should not be done, and without any problems, for as long as I can
> remember I was curious about the rational of your statement, and apparently
> you are in the same boat as me...I believe the big red Perko switches are
> "make before break" and I can certainly feel the load on my engine and see
> the ammeter show higher charging current when I switch from start baattery
> to charge partailly discharge house bank batteries...I figured that was to be
> expected.  Don't think I'll be changing to that alternate procedure...not
> without good reason and if there were a good reason why have I not had a
> problem?  Maybe others can shed more light.
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>   ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* September 28, 2014 9:31 PM
> *To:* dwight
> *Subject:* RE: Stus-List Boat Batteries
>
>
>
> I think you are addressing me...my name is Josh.
>
> I have asked the same question myself.  It is certainly up for discussion
> as I may have been misinformed or under a misunderstanding.
>
> As I understand it, one would fully charge the first battery, then stop
> the engine and switch the selector to all.  Restart the engine.
>
> I guess when you switch the selector while the engine is running, there is
> a chance that charge circuit is broken momentarily and the alternator sees
> no load causing an inductive kick that fries the regulator diodes.  Xantrex
> makes a product called a "Zap-Stop" that is supposed to shunt the kick from
> through a fuse and diode.  IIRC it is attached across the positive ground
> terminals on the alternator.  Normal operation keeps the diode reverse
> biased.  The kick is backwards, so that forward biases the diode.
>
> This is all a bit of a work around for not having an ACR, or isolating
> diode, or DC to DC charger.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sep 28, 2014 6:26 PM, "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
> From your statement "Remember not to switch the 1-ALL-2 when running the
> engine"
>
>
>
> If position 1 is for start and position 2 is for house, considering the
> statement above how does one switch from position 1 to position 2 for
> charging the house bank with the alternator while steaming.
>
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35MKII, Alianna
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
>
>   ------------------------------
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September 28, 2014 5:10 PM
> *To:* C&C List; Indigo
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries
>
>
>
> +1 to Rick's comments.
>
> IMO you should get 2 of the largest and highest Amp-hour (heaviest)
> "deep-cycle" batteries that will fit in your compartment.  Use them
> interchangeably to start and run house loads.  Others have suggested
> switching the 1-ALL-2 selector based on the odd/even day of the week to
> equalize run time.
>
> There are things you can do to improve your setup but if the exsisting
> setup has worked without issue for 12 years then I say stick with it.
>
> Remember not to switch the 1-ALL-2 when running the engine.  Doing so can
> momentarily break the charging circuit and blow the diodes/regulator in the
> alternator.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sep 28, 2014 10:47 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Looks like I need new batteries!  I have lived for 12 years with two
> batteries - one used for house and the other kept in reserve via off-1-all
> -2 switch.
>
> Would like to have a dedicated starting battery in addition to two
> deep-cells but do not see how I can fit the three in the locker under the
> quarter berth - and am reluctant to give up any other locker space. - so it
> looks like I will stick to the two.
>
> I googling marine batteries I see that there are dual purpose ones
> available. Anyone know if this is just a marketing "hoax". In particular
> Batteries Plus have a Group 27 dual purpose Duracell battery for $95 -
> seems like a steal - or am I going to be disappointed with how long I can
> expect it to last (I presume all group. 27 give out the same amp/hours - or
> do I have to watch out there?
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
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