Kevin,

Glad you were able to trace the problem!  This a good reminder for those
with external regulators.

Joel


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the
> wire from the alternator to the external regulator had corroded and fallen
> off. I didn't see it at first because it's buried in my tight engine
> compartment. Of course in hindsight I might have checked the regulator
> earlier. Good thing is that u understand my charging system a whole lot
> better and all the connections have been refreshed. I also got my link 20
> battery monitor working again.
>
> Had a couple of nice days in Victoria BC and pushing off for Arbutus cove
> on discovery island soon. What a beautiful place to cruise...
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
> Portland
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
> On Jul 6, 2014 7:18 PM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> 35v may infact be the open circuit voltage.  Check if you are getting 35v
>> at the battery terminals.  That would explain the heat.  Sounds to me like
>> a bad charge regulator or bad interconnecting wiring on the sensing line.
>> A standard lead acid 12v system should be limited to ~14.7v. Double that
>> for a 24v system.
>>
>> With an external regulator the regulating terminal on the alternator
>> connects to the regulator.  This single wire provides the feedback to the
>> alternator that it is providing enough (or not enough) voltage.  Simple
>> regulators rely only on voltage but the better external regulators will use
>> a shunt to provide a current feedback to the regulator as well.  The
>> current is/should be directly proportional to the differance in voltage
>> between the battery and the alternator output.  The current should also be
>> limited (by limiting the difference in voltage) to the max charging voltage
>> of the battery (type) and the max output of the alternator.
>>
>> Disrupting the current and/or voltage sensing lines to the regulator or
>> the regulating line to the alternator will cause improper voltage output
>> from the alternator.  35v sounds VERY improper.  This "disruption" is the
>> reason that turning the ignition key to the off position before pulling the
>> stop plunger can cause a blown alternator on some systems.  The key
>> disrupts the regulating signal and the alternator goes to max output.
>>
>> Let us know what you find.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Jul 5, 2014 12:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On our anniversary sail up to Victoria, we pulled in to Gray's harbour,
>>> Wa last night because the batteries are not charging. Looking for
>>> suggestions of diagnosis / solutions. See below: thanks
>>>
>>> The alternator belt was somewhat loose but I tightened it and no luck on
>>> charging. Tested terminals on back of alternator and reading was same
>>> before and after tightening... About 35 volts.
>>>
>>> About to start this morning by checking / cleaning battery terminals and
>>> other connections from alternator back. Hoping this could be the issue
>>> because as I previously posted my starter has been giving me the clicks. I
>>> have the faint glow on the Charging indicator lamp at the engine panel too.
>>> I have a heart interface  "incharge " alternator regulator.
>>>
>>> Any other suggestions?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Kevin
>>>
>>> Sent from my Tablet
>>>
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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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