Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued together make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course.
Andy C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jul 9, 2014, at 7:38, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork > carpenter. I've approached him already. > I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought > the boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of > a frame that takes the majority of the load from the weakest area of the > tiller. Even though the ends have rotted, this bracket has allowed me to run > it further than. I'm comfortable with. > > Brent Driedger > 27-5 > Lake Winnipeg. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jul 9, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a bit >> of asking around at places that advertise that they can make replacements >> for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. Bought some teak and >> sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to form the shape and >> laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West System 205 resin, a >> little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. For gluing wood, you >> want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to really seep into the >> wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back end is just some strips >> glued up into a block. The only design change I made was to extend the grip >> end by 4 inches. The reason for that was because the hiking stick on the >> original was mounted about an inch from the end, and I could not fit my hand >> in front of it. I also filled in the narrowest part of the split with >> thickened epoxy as I always found that narrow pointy gap a problem when >> refinishing. I think I have some picture s of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat. >> >> Bill Bina >> >> >>> On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote: >>> The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legs I'm going to replace it this >>> winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design >>> splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like >>> it on stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about >>> composite? No more maintenance. >>> >>> Brent Driedger >>> 27-5 >>> Lake Winnipeg. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >>> page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> . >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of >> page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
