Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas.
Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block > (or is it oil pan .... can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming > yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump > (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power > to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the > engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or > you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the > carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently > by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any > maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to > bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time .... a wire with a > couple alligator clips would work. > > I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start > button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. > > I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow > alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. > > My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted > gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has > a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you > actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with > mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment > now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) > is also recommended by many. > > Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split > shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the > alternator tensioner recently. > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > *From:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Sent:* Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM > *To:* bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gear shift > > > Hi, > > I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my > experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the > original) > > Comments below in *bold* type > > > <![if !supportLists]>1. <![endif]>Is there generally an “off” or > kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about > an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key > > *Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch.* > > <![if !supportLists]>2. <![endif]>This motor has an electric fuel > pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will > turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem > to find? > > *Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil.* > > <![if !supportLists]>3. <![endif]> My previous experience with > inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to > operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The > cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it > from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these > reduction gearing systems. > > * Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of > slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more > noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 > direct drive* > > New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. > New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little > variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. > > *85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over > 100lbs I believe.* > > Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the > survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the > boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I > know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen > the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. > > *Head over to the moyer marine forums. You get loads of great info over > there! I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. > Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost > and time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it > wasd drop in replacement. There are still 20,000 of them out there running > nicely and moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly > serviceable.* > > Danny > Lolita > 1973 Viking 33 > Westport Point, MA > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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