The idea is right but I question the use of fibreglass panels . I did my cutlass bearing and prop is past spring ,I used 3/8" steel plate ,might have been a little overkill
DDrake 73 JH C&C 26 > On Dec 21, 2013, at 4:27 PM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I've posted two photos of the almost finished tool at > Facebook.com/theoffice35. Any suggestions are welcome! > > Joel > >> On Thursday, December 19, 2013, Andrew Burton wrote: >> I've always lived by the motto, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer." >> Andy >> C&C 40 >> Peregrine >> >> Andrew Burton >> 61 W Narragansett >> Newport, RI >> USA 02840 >> >> andrewburtonyachtservices >> +401 965-5260 >> >>> On Dec 19, 2013, at 12:33, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Rich, >>> >>> Words to live by! >>> >>> Joel >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 12:26 PM, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote: >>> Sounds as though you have things under control. One hint: Do not beat on >>> anything, even if it seems appropriate at the time. :) >>> >>> Rich >>> >>>> On Dec 19, 2013, at 12:46, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> The boat was hauled Wednesday. Too bad, as it will be near 70 degrees >>>> Sunday. >>>> >>>> The set screws are clearly visible on the port side. Now I need time to >>>> remove the Maxprop and try my bearing removal tool, but it won't be this >>>> weekend. I'll take photos as I go and share them (and the tool) if things >>>> go well! >>>> >>>> Joel >>>> 35/3 >>>> Annapolis >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 at 12:00 AM, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> >>>> wrote: >>>> It's no big secret once you start looking for them. Mine were on >>>> starboard, same as the pic. >>>> >>>> >>>> On 14 December 2013 15:38, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>> Joel, >>>> Found this picture on web of a typical strut: >>>> http://m2.i.pbase.com/g3/84/622984/3/111688642.1ncRHrMc.jpg >>>> >>>> There may be some tricks for finding the set screws, others may know? >>>> >>>> >>>> Chuck >>>> Resolute >>>> 1990 C&C 34R >>>> Atlantic City, NJ >>>> From: "Joel Aronson" <joel.aron...@gmail.com> >>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>> Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 11:11:22 AM >>>> >>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing removal tool >>>> >>>> Chuck, >>>> >>>> Still in the planning stage. My boat should have been hauled Thursday but >>>> the tide was so low I could not get the boat to the travel lift. It >>>> should be hauled at high tide Monday. >>>> >>>> The HF bearing separator kit (or a borrowed one) might be the easy way >>>> out. I'll check the local auto supply places. Thanks for the tip! >>>> Otherwise I'll cut and drill 2 end plates and buy some threaded rod. Once >>>> I see the clearance I'll decide what to use for the sleeve. I'm hoping a >>>> piece of PVC will fit, but I doubt it. >>>> >>>> I'll remember the set screws!! >>>> >>>> Joel >>>> >>>> On Saturday, December 14, 2013, Chuck S wrote: >>>> Hi Joel, >>>> Not sure how far along you are on your bearing removal? I have heard a >>>> few people found the cutless bearing came out fairly easily. Have you >>>> removed the two set screws holding it in place? The cool temperatures >>>> this winter may work to your advantage and the thing may fall out after a >>>> few good taps? >>>> >>>> I googled Bearing Separator Harbor Freight and found several choices in >>>> Automotive. >>>> >>>> Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Auto Center may lend you the tool? You'll >>>> still need to make a split sleeve to go over the shaft to press against >>>> the metal part ot the bearing. 1" pipe nipple or 1" rigid conduit cut >>>> square. Another idea is to assemble a bunch of keyways the same length >>>> and tape them or hose clamp them around the shaft to act as a sleeve. > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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