Tapered wood emergency plugs available from chandleries make great centring 
devices for the hole saw. Drive them gently into place. Mark about 1/4" from 
the outside of the hull, remove, cut off the external excess, mark the centre, 
replace and drill away.

Rich

On Dec 20, 2013, at 7:14 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

Replaced the old 1 1/2" speed and depth through hulls w new style 2" thru-hulls 
two years back.  
The newer style AirMar sleeves are much better including a spring loaded 
shutoff so when you pull the speedo, less than a teaspoon of water leaks in.  
Before about two cups of water would sneak in, but now I pull the speedo after 
each sail because it's so easy.  It makes it so easy to keep the paddlewheel 
clean.

I removed the old plastic thru-hulls and enlarged the holes using a hole saw.  
Cut a wooden plug from several layers of plywood that fit the old hole and that 
kept the hole saw centered.   All thruhulls on Resolute are flush, the balsa 
core is cut back several inches from thru-hull locations and the inner layers 
are bonded to the outer layers, and the sleeve is countersunk into the outer 
hull surface about 1/4".  The hull laminate is about 3/4" thick along the 
centerline making a fiberglass keelson.  Used a dremel to chamfer the edge and 
West System epoxy and 404 filler to seal the edges of glass and get a good fit. 
 Then 4200 the sleeves in place, snugged up the collar washers inside, and 
faired over to make a racing bottom finish.  The wooden plug was the trick that 
made it all work.  I took a few pictures if anyone is interested?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
From: "Rich Knowles" <r...@sailpower.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 1:41:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List In hull transducer location

Whatever works for you. Don't let the hole size become a problem. It's not. 

Rich

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