Based on old research, there was no real difference between the manufacturing 
annotation between the -1 and -2 so serial no's continued.  Then there was an 
interruption of a few years and they came out with the Rob Ball designed -3.

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858
www.airsensing.com


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:46:01 -0400
From: "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: <kenhea...@gmail.com>,      <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
Message-ID: <789431E9C87546A092EAF22D90C9E6E4@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Right Ken, 351 altogether, 204 were MKI's and 147 were MKII's.not sure how many 
MKIII's were produced but I think the sequential numbering system changed with 
the first MKIII produced



  _____

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton
Sent: November 26, 2013 9:59 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again



I seem to remember they didn't start over at hull 1 with the 35 Mk.2  I think 
they just continued the numbering sequentially from the last 35 Mk.1 built.



Ken H.



On 26 November 2013 15:08, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:

Lee, it looks like you have hull # 252, Mithrandir is #224. I thought they were 
all built in NOL, I don't know why yours would prefix ZCC and theirs CCY...ZCC 
is C&C @ NOL, CCY references Calder Building Co. in Arizona.

I see Dwight has just posted that there were only 147 built, so now I'm not 
sure. Maybe they prefixed the 35-2 hull numbers with 2 so you would have #52? I 
dunno.



On 26 November 2013 10:15, Lee Youngblood <leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

Hi All,

Just how many 35-IIs  did C&C build in 1974?
I know there was something about the different codes but don't remember.

Thanks, Lee

Lee Youngblood
s/v Simplicity in Seattle
1974 C&C 35-II
Hull #ZCC352520374





Bill and Gaynor
Mithrandir
'74 C&C 35 MkII
HIN: CCY352241174



--

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com





--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:52:47 -0400
From: "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
Message-ID: <D9E012460AE94DEDB257A87D9971EAEB@your4dacd0ea75>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

If you don't run the engine after the oil change the new oil will just sit
in the sump all winter long.best to give her a run and get the new stuff
where it's needed.how long you have to run to achieve that I am not sure but
I change oil for the winter storage before my last trip to the marina, for
me that's about a 20 minute run under power.



  _____

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo
Sent: November 26, 2013 11:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



I understand the need to get the temperature up in order to get the old oil
out, but why do I need to run it up to temp with the new oil?  I have just
been turning the engine over for a minute or less to get the oil circulated.
(Engine block is still warm- but certainly not up to temp



--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 26, 2013, at 14:47, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chuck

Yes warm the oil you want to change out before draining the sump but it is
equally important to run the engine up to temp for a while on the new oil




Dwight Veinot

Alianna
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 11:16 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

Yeah Dwight,
I guess you are right.  I didn't have to but I like to warm up the engine
oil before draining that, so I've always run the engine to temperature
before winterizing.
I draw in the pink stuff, then hand pump the oil from the crancase.  I have
a routine; ice box, foot pump that into the sink, do the second sink, then
the head, then last is the bilge and the two elec bilge pumps and the manual
bilge pump.  This year I captured most of the antifreeze from the pumps and
will use again next year.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _____


From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:07:49 AM


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing

Chuck

If I remember you have a Universal M4-30.  Is yours your water cooled and
that is why you got the engine up to 190, to make sure the thermostat
opened.  No need to do that if your engine has a heat exchanger like mine
does




Dwight Veinot

Alianna
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



On Wed, Nov 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote:

I tried the Toronto Bucket Method today.  Nice to have that option.  It
works.  It is environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping
the exhaust.

My marina hauled my boat today, but the water was turned off everywhere
because of the risk of freezeup for the last few weeks.   It works.  It is
environmentally friendly since it captures antifreeze escaping the exhaust.
But it was hard to get the engine to draw from the bucket until I primed the
15' hose w antifreeze using a funnel.   Had to run for about twenty minutes
to get the temp up to 190, to be sure the thermostat was open.  I started w
4 1/2 gallons of pink RV antifreeze.  The engine sucked up about 1 1/2
gallons.  Used the rest to winterize the ice box drain, foot pump, sink
traps, and bilge pumps.

Love the list for new ideas!



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _____


From: "dwight veinot" <dwight...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:26:30 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing



Another 35 MKII owner on the list...only 147 of that design ever built, they
are senior citizens by some standards but many are still active and bringing
lots of sailing pleasure to their owners,

There's no reason to change a good practice, 21 years is way long enough to
prove it's a good one




Dwight Veinot

Alianna
C&C 35 MKII

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS



On Tue, Nov 19, 2013 at 10:16 AM, Ken Rodmell <moo...@sympatico.ca> wrote:

On my 35 Mk II, I've been using the same system for 21 years. It can get
very cold up here in Toronto and I've had no problems.

I hang a bucket containing about a gallon of the antifreeze mix from the
stern rail directly below the exhaust pipe,. A hose is led from the bucket
through the cockpit to the water intake on the Perkins 4-108 engine. It is
connected by a plastic elbow.

I run the engine until it reaches operating temperature which takes a few
minutes. I use a tester 2 or three times to check the water/anti freeze mix
as there is always some water left in the system and I might have to add
more anti freeze to bring it up to specs.

If my winter cover is already on, I open it up while the engine is running
and make sure I have lots of ventilation as some exhaust gasses may reach
the cockpit.

I shut off the engine, Take the hose off, then remove the impeller and store
it in vegetable oil.

In the spring, I put about a tablespoonful of fresh diesel oil into the air
intake and turn the engine over 3 or 4 times without starting it. Can anyone
on the list who has more engineering knowledge tell me why this might not be
a good idea?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Ken Rodmell
Ward's Island, Toronto
Toronto


_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

  _____

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3629/6368 - Release Date: 11/26/13

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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 05:27:35 -0500
From: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
Message-ID: <ee52a67b-de92-4342-834b-9822d8c64...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Richard,

Pretty sure that they were all built at NOTL.

Best,
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
ZCC67018M82D


On Nov 26, 2013, at 11:35 PM, Richard N. Bush <bushma...@aol.com> wrote:

> Bill, do you know where the 37s (1981-1985 production) were built? Thanks
> Richard
> 1987 33-II
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> 502-584-7255
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Bina <billb...@sbcglobal.net>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2013 4:00 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
>
> Despite the never-ending confusion over how the numbering system works, no 
> (none) 35's were ever built in Rhode Island. You would need the molds for 
> that, and they were always in Canada. The numbering system really isn't that 
> complicated, but people seem to go crazy trying to figure it out anyway. :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 11/26/2013 3:32 PM, dwight veinot wrote:
>> Jim
>>
>> That was solved earlier, apparently the RI plant was opened in Feb 1974 
>> right in the middle of the 35 MKII production run: I can?t remember who but 
>> someone on this list explained that and what was previously the NOL letters 
>> became the RI letters in the ser. no. or something like that, so some of the 
>> 147 35 MKII's appear to have been built in Canada and some in the US
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> Alianna
>> C&C 35 MKII
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 12:59:39 GMT
From: "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List  Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <20131127.075939.2008...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

 In case I don't get a chance later...Happy Thanksgiving, all! I'm thankful for 
Stu, for this list, and all you guys and your advice and banter! All the best! 
Danny
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------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:40:05 -0500
From: Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <c998b298-57bc-404d-9fb5-62b49a481...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii

Hear, hear!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Nov 27, 2013, at 12:59, "djhaug...@juno.com" <djhaug...@juno.com> wrote:

>
> In case I don't get a chance later...Happy Thanksgiving, all!
>
> I'm thankful for Stu, for this list, and all you guys and your advice and 
> banter!
>
> All the best!
>
> Danny
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:34:30 -0500
From: Bill Bina <billb...@sbcglobal.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Time for the Hull Number Lesson again
Message-ID: <5295f4e6.6030...@sbcglobal.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

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------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:50:40 -0500
From: "Tim Sippel" <tim.sip...@rci.rogers.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
Message-ID:
        <694f055c6c52124ebfcd2c09b41d9c3f10044...@cl08mbc.rci.rogers.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
sew it on ..
An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$

Tim
 Toronto

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
with foam under it.  A great winter project.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us>
wrote:
>
> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
Recommendations are welcome.
>
> Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:54:51 -0500
From: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New C&c 30
Message-ID:
        <CALf-bNQ=ATut=UTR0cV=e_2vB5WnsF-mN4j+xxB5dzq=j5e...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Sounds like a fun boat. I would not owne one for the money.A boat like
that is so specialized for the race, no other practible uses. Except
taking up a birth at the dock. As far as the  advantage of a fixed
sprit less moving parts = less breakdowns under sail.


On 11/27/13, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
> ...and sail it around the Island...
>
> Rich
>
>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:48, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> As soon as I sell my ancient barge I'm putting a down payment on one of
>> those.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Of course, at an asking price of only $189,900 CAD it might take a few
>> months to move my current ride, but that's the only way I'll be able to
>> afford one of the new barges. Dang, a self-contained head. I just have one
>> of the standard ones on the top of my neck.
>>
>>
>>> On 26 November 2013 21:38, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> From sailing anarchy:
>>> The new C&C 30 is pure race boat, complete with a fixed composite sprit
>>> to accommodate an asymmetric spinnaker, carbon fiber rig, square top
>>> mainsail, Dyneema lifelines, fabricated steel fin keel with lead bulb,
>>> top of the line hardware package, and of course, water-tight hatches.
>>> Should the wind die down, the C&C 30 has a smooth running 2-cylinder
>>> inboard diesel engine to get you to and from distant race courses.  This
>>> one design is race ready for around the buoys, but is also equipped for
>>> the shorter distance offshore races with a self-contained head and two
>>> settee berths.  C&C Yachts will launch the 30 One Design in the Spring of
>>> 2014.  www.c-cyachts.com.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>


--
?Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.? - Nicholas Monsarrat



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 08:59:15 -0500
From: Jerome Tauber <jrtau...@aol.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New C&c 30
Message-ID: <2da60261-421a-4cc0-819c-7a73478c7...@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8

In my area a fixed sprit means paying for three extra feet of boat length.  
Jerry C&C

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 27, 2013, at 8:54 AM, Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Sounds like a fun boat. I would not owne one for the money.A boat like
> that is so specialized for the race, no other practible uses. Except
> taking up a birth at the dock. As far as the  advantage of a fixed
> sprit less moving parts = less breakdowns under sail.
>
>
>> On 11/27/13, Rich Knowles <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:
>> ...and sail it around the Island...
>>
>> Rich
>>
>>> On Nov 27, 2013, at 1:48, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> As soon as I sell my ancient barge I'm putting a down payment on one of
>>> those.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Of course, at an asking price of only $189,900 CAD it might take a few
>>> months to move my current ride, but that's the only way I'll be able to
>>> afford one of the new barges. Dang, a self-contained head. I just have one
>>> of the standard ones on the top of my neck.
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 26 November 2013 21:38, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> From sailing anarchy:
>>>> The new C&C 30 is pure race boat, complete with a fixed composite sprit
>>>> to accommodate an asymmetric spinnaker, carbon fiber rig, square top
>>>> mainsail, Dyneema lifelines, fabricated steel fin keel with lead bulb,
>>>> top of the line hardware package, and of course, water-tight hatches.
>>>> Should the wind die down, the C&C 30 has a smooth running 2-cylinder
>>>> inboard diesel engine to get you to and from distant race courses.  This
>>>> one design is race ready for around the buoys, but is also equipped for
>>>> the shorter distance offshore races with a self-contained head and two
>>>> settee berths.  C&C Yachts will launch the 30 One Design in the Spring of
>>>> 2014.  www.c-cyachts.com.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Joel
>>>> 301 541 8551
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> --
> ?Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.? - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2013 09:01:33 -0500 (EST)
From: "Richard N. Bush" <bushma...@aol.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
Message-ID: <8d0b9905094c7c0-1c8c-75...@webmailstg-m05.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


Or you could get one of those Merriman folding wheels that come already 
covered; I bought the 40 inch model three boats ago and love it; I have kept it 
when I traded boats... the covering is first rate and has held up well. I do 
keep it covered when not using the boat and it gets stored inside the boat 
during winter;  the "other" wheel makes a nice garage decoration...


Richard
1987 33-II


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
502-584-7255



-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Sippel <tim.sip...@rci.rogers.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2013 8:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps


I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80
bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it
sew it on ..
An Edson kit for a 48" wheel was astronomical $$$

Tim
 Toronto

-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
j...@svpaws.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps

Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit.
Have bought several items from them.  Covering the wheel is not
difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go
with foam under it.  A great winter project.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us>
wrote:
>
> One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the
wheel on Firewater.  The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of
the season around here.  This raises a few questions of people who might
have done it before.  First, does anyone have experience with
boatleather.com or other suppliers?  BoatLeather seems to have a lock on
the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives.
Recommendations are welcome.
>
> Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know
what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive
mounted on the wheel.  Can someone give me the steps required there?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> P.S.  Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is
still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago
that he thought was sold but is back on the market.
>
> Sent from my iPad
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