The water you can see in the keel sump is not oxygen deprived. It's in contact with the atmosphere and absorbs oxygen. My understanding is that if water is trapped inside, say, the rudder or somewhere in contact with the keel bolts, where no air can get to it, then that can cause the stainless to corrode.
On Tue, Sep 3, 2013 at 8:44 AM, Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> wrote: > John and others > > In the reply below you reference the problems from wet stainless in > oxygen deprived environment. I have heard this comment several times > before also. > > I am not aware of a large nimber of sailboats that do not have some > water in th bilge most if not all the time. Since this is where the > kell bolts are torgued with the nuts it seem that this would count as > wet and oxygen deprived. Am I missing something or are we all in > imminent danger? > > Mike > > Nut Case > > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John > and Maryann Read > Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 5:56 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C smile > > Hi Bill > > If your keelboats are leaking, then your smile has progressed to the > point > of more than stuffing in some bondo and the need for some redoing the > keel / > sump seal itself to prevent leaks. Remember that the keel bolts are > stainless which will degrade when wet in an oxygen deprived environment > which is what happens when the keel / sump seal is compromised. A good > starting place would be get the opinion of your local fiberglass repair > shop. I believe this subject is also well covered in the archives of > this > list as well as the DIY section of the photoalbum. > > To be absolutely sure, the preferred process at haul out would be to 1) > lower the keel, 2) clean, fair and prep the mating surfaces, 3) > reattach > the keel with a preferred adhesive / sealant, 4) properly torque the > keel > bolts, 5) grind and fair both sides of the joint by at least a foot, 6) > apply fiberglass as a fairing, 7) fair the fiberglass, 8) apply > several > coats of barrier coat then bottom paint. > > If this is too much, then you can try digging out all bondo and as best > you > can expose the joint as deeply as possible. Clean it to provide a good > sealing surface. Stuff in your sealant, then proceed at step 4. > > Fiberglass tape provides negligible structural integrity. The keel > bolts > and adhesive at the sump / keel joint do that. The tape is to fair the > joint. If there is insufficient structural integrity, the keel will > flex > and break the tape bond. > > Hope this helps > > > > John and Maryann > Legacy III > 1982 C&C 34 > Noank, CT > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill > Connon > Sent: Monday, September 02, 2013 1:26 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List C&C smile > > I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This > season > I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( along with > rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year I'm planning > on > making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex epoxy for this > project? > I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap and then use wetted out > fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint. > Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated. > > Bill > Caprice 1 > 1978 C&C 36 > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 203 653 2886 (o) 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu
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