Mike From my memory, there were wood screws by the main cabin bulkhead forward and aft on buy the smaller bulkhead/partition in front of the ice box. Also, there may have been a similar screw(s) in the center connecting the panel to the shelf outboard.
Ed C&C 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl New Orleans From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2013 12:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Chainplate Knees Very good recommendation. How does the panel come off? I took a look at the panel behind the dinette table, not sure how it fastens to the cabinetry mainly because everything is painted over. My 30-1 is still going strong, Windburn took first at the Youngstown Levels FS PHRF. Would like to keep it that way. Mike Brown Windburn C&C 30 Mk I Message: 5 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 15:00:45 +0000 From: Ed Levert <elev...@grayinsco.com<mailto:elev...@grayinsco.com>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Chainplate Knees Message-ID: <bfbe0724a7914bc3be877ddcbd944...@metexchangesvr2.internal.graycompanyinc.com<mailto:bfbe0724a7914bc3be877ddcbd944...@metexchangesvr2.internal.graycompanyinc.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Aaron: Not long after acquiring my C&C 30 Mk 1 #19, while sailing on a blustery day, I thought I could see movement in the chain plate above deck when a puff hit. My son inspected closer and confirmed the chain plate was moving. When we later removed the panel outboard of the dinette table, we saw that perhaps the lower 4 in. of the chainplate knee's tabbing was separating from the hull. I had a professional re-glass the tabbing of the knee. Considering that you are getting water on the inside of the tabbing, you should check for the integrity of the wood core of the knee. Short of drilling some holes into the knee, I would probe the wood to see how firm it is. This can be done by either removing the chain plate entirely and checking at each bolt hole, or if you do not want to remove the chain plate, remove individual bolts randomly and probe with a pick. One telltale sign is if the bolt holes in the knees appear to have "stressed" and are not perfectly round. If you have soft or decaying wood, you should consider replacing the knees. If you have firm wood, you might want to coat the inside of the holes with epoxy (use a Q tip) to help seal the wood at these penetrations before you put things back together. Obviously seal the chainplates at deck level as best as you can. Ed C&C 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl New Orleans From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 9:30 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List 30-1 Chainplate Knees Good Morning, What is the proper procedure the make sure Chainplate Knees are in good condition on my 30-1? They look and sound solid but on a very rainy day, I noticed that about a foot under the knee (behind the seat back) where the overlapping pieces of glass reinforcement ends, There is very small of water seeping out from underneath the glass. It's only noticeable if I use a brown tissue paper. I know that I have to reseal the chainplates but I have been putting it off to next season. Does anyone have any experience with the knees on a 30-1? Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130729/81c5aed2/attachment-0001.html>
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