Yes I wil do that...you need to punch holes in the butyl tape for each of
the screws and make sure the butyl tape sticks to the handrail

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: May 3, 2013 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Installing teak handrails

Hello again,

As i'm getting closer to installing my new handrails, I have grown concern
regarding the bedding compound.  My old handrails were lag screwed from the
bottom.  I like this approach as it makes installing finished handrails a
much less time consuming job.  There would be no need for plugging, sanding
and re-finishing the plugs after installation.  I wanted to re-bed them
using the method descibed on
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware.  However, the more I
think about it, using the Butyl tape doesn't lend itself very well to using
lag screws.  It seems to me you don't want the bolt/screw turning, as it
would grab the Butyl and pull it out of place.  You know, that stuff likes
to stick to itself and everything else.  

Wouldn't turning the lag bolt mess up the nice cone shaped blob you place
for the countersink area?

 ... Am I overthinking this? 

 ...should I go back to jolly 'ol 5200?

...should I reconsider through bolts and plugs and then have to deal with
refinishing the plug areas.  I wouldn't mind but, the need to re-coat 8
times at 1 time per 24hrs really makes it tedious.  Especially, when it
takes me 40 minutes to get to the boat.  Thats not much fun after work every
day.  1 1/2 driving for 20 minutes of coating, not to mention the gas...LOL

As always, I appreciate any and all opinions and insights,

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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