I removed, refinished and replaced mine last year. My solution for the large bronze wood screws was to make a doughnut, more like a large Cheerio, out of butyl and carefully stick that on the gelcoat surrounding the hole. Fresh butyl "likes" fingers, and that was trickier than it sounds. A bit of kerosene helps to clean your fingers afterwards. With a bit of help it was possible to get the screws started in the rail, and the rail adjusted close to the deck before a final tightening down. This gave me a chance to recheck the positioning of the butyl. I didn't try to seal the entire surface where the teak met the deck. My thinking was that a bit of water between the teak and the deck wouldn't matter so long as it was away from the deck penetrations. I am not so sure about that now, but anyway that is what I did. The rails had been sealed down with something like a 3M product and it took me a couple of days of careful cutting and scraping to get it all off of the gelcoat. I was reluctant to do that again and the butyl tape should be a lot easier to remove and clean up if changes are needed in the future.
Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON PS It took a while to find new bronze screws the correct size. I take it you have what you need by now, but others may want to look into sourcing these before they get started. -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 9:38 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Installing teak handrails Hello again, As i'm getting closer to installing my new handrails, I have grown concern regarding the bedding compound. My old handrails were lag screwed from the bottom. I like this approach as it makes installing finished handrails a much less time consuming job. There would be no need for plugging, sanding and re-finishing the plugs after installation. I wanted to re-bed them using the method descibed on http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware. However, the more I think about it, using the Butyl tape doesn't lend itself very well to using lag screws. It seems to me you don't want the bolt/screw turning, as it would grab the Butyl and pull it out of place. You know, that stuff likes to stick to itself and everything else. Wouldn't turning the lag bolt mess up the nice cone shaped blob you place for the countersink area? ... Am I overthinking this? ...should I go back to jolly 'ol 5200? ...should I reconsider through bolts and plugs and then have to deal with refinishing the plug areas. I wouldn't mind but, the need to re-coat 8 times at 1 time per 24hrs really makes it tedious. Especially, when it takes me 40 minutes to get to the boat. Thats not much fun after work every day. 1 1/2 driving for 20 minutes of coating, not to mention the gas...LOL As always, I appreciate any and all opinions and insights, Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
