I was surprised to find so many hard areas in the cabin top. I even found solid glass areas where I installed the turning blocks aft of the mast (along a line about 45 degrees off the centerline of the boat) and straight forward of the cabin top winches.
Another thought about drill and fill, sparked by the comment about filling the epoxy with Cabosil to keep it from sagging. I use a hole saw to over drill the holes (usually ½ or 5/8). Drill down into the core, but not all the way through. Then take a flat screw driver and pry out the balsa plug. That leaves the inner fiberglass mostly in tact you might heed to remove a bit of bals when you are undercutting the balsa core around the hole. Then put a small square of tape over the hole in the bottom layer of glass before you pour in the epoxy. No drips on the enside, and a solid base for the epoxy to cure on. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 2:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling holes in deck/mounting new clutches Rick, Thanks for the tip. I've got the access panels, but at least where the clutches are its cored. Further aft where the winches are mounted its all glass. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 2:06 PM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: You said the mounting holes are drilled through the core. Im surprised, every place you would logically put a winch, cleat, clutch or turning block on the deck of my 38 is solid glass, and most have access panels in the headliner. If you are drilled through the core, you should over drill and fill the area with filled epoxy. Then drill your new mounting holes through the epoxy. Be sure to chamfer the top of the holes so you get a good ring of sealant around the capscrews. Since your clutch and teak blocks are going to be under variable loads, if you use butyl for sealant the stuff is likely to get squeezed out and allow motion of the teak and the clutch. I use 4200 or 4000 sealant in this sort of application. Dry fit the block and outline it with masking tape. Then caulk the joint and assemble, tightening the capscrews just until sealant oozes out under the edges of the block. Let cure for 24 hours. When cured, take a razor blade and cut down along the edge of the block. Lift the tape and all the OOZE will come up on the tape. Now torque the capscrews to compress the seal, and you should never have a leak. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 1:04 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Filling holes in deck/mounting new clutches I'm planning to replace a set of clutches this weekend. The old ones are mounted on teak blocks and bolted with 1/4 inch bolts and backing plates. The holes were drilled right through the core with no epoxy. There does not seem to be any water intrusion, as the bottom of the teak block was covered in a sealant. What is the best way/material to fill the old holes? A tube of 4200? Should I enlarge the holes before filling them? For the new clutches, is butyl rubber the way to go or would you over-drill and fill with epoxy? -- Joel 301 541 8551 <tel:301%20541%208551> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551
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