Very similar to how I wire them. I usually use the Rule auto-off-manual rocker
switch with the appropriately sized fuse. I usually power it by connecting it
to one of the battery feeds on the back of the main battery switch so it is
always powered.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2012 9:05 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump
>
>
>Dwight -- a pump is sort of a special case. Yes, you need over-current
>protection in the form of a breaker or fuse as close to the power source as
>possible; but many pumps have unusual protection ratings, like in Pat's case 3
>amps, or I've seen others like mine that require 7 amps. Good luck finding a
>3- or 7-amp breaker. So the overall wiring may be protected by a breaker at
>the panel, but to keep the pump from frying on a 15-amp breaker-protected
>circuit, you also need the proper inline fuse.
>
>
>On my boat, I've got a manual/auto bilge pump switch at the panel, which is
>NOT fed directly from the battery, but rather from a sub-feed that comes off
>the battery feed to the main panel (and is overall protected at the battery
>itself). This supplies power (through a block of individual blade-type fuses)
>to always-on circuits like the stereo (to hold programmed stations, etc.) and
>the like, and is ahead of the main 100-amp house breaker. The bilge pump
>switch has a fuse holder for the exact fuse rating the pump requires. So the
>wiring from the battery is protected at the battery, and the pump and
>associated wiring is protected by the fuse at the switch.
>
>
>Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
>On Dec 4, 2012, at 7:38 AM, dwight veinot <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote:
>
>You probably already know, but the fuse needs to be as close to the battery as
>possible…it is protecting the wire to the pump, not the pump itself
>
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