Martin,
I have used PVC frames and a heavy-duty tarp for several years now (after 5
years, I am on the second tarp). With the mast left in, I run 2 1X4s along the
top of the boom, bolted together just forward of the mast, and rest them on top
of the SS framework of the bimini aft. The 1X4's therefore go all the way to
the stern transom. If I take out the mast, I use a 4X4 in place of the mast to
hold up the forward end of the 1X4's and the boom is gone. The framework is
made of 1/2 inch PCV pipes bent over the 1X4's using PVC T's to join them
together at the boom. Also, to keep the fore-aft spacing of these supports
fixed, they are T'd into short lengths of PVC pipe running along the boom. I
use 7 of these PVC supports along the boom, from the mast back to just over the
stern (i.e. beyond the end of the boom). The free ends of the PVC pipes (away
from the boom) go over the lifelines and terminate in PVC T's to make it easy
to tie them down over the side of the boat and under the hull, making a rigid
curved framework. I cover this with a heavy-duty tarp (that's important -
light-weight ones wear out quickly at the stress points), tied at the mast,
over the life lines (the stanchion tops need to be [padded to avoid tearing the
tarp) and then lashed to the ends of the PVC pipes. Beginning last year, I
disconnected the after shrouds so the tarp could run straight across the boat
at the foreword end (suggested on this list last fall). I don't glue the PVC
pipes into the T's used over the boom so they aren't so long to store during
the sailing season.
The PVC pipes do crack occasionally - usually I need to replace 1 or 2
each season but they are cheap. This arrangement remains open fore and aft.
which keeps the cabin from becoming very humid (like when I had Cat's Paw
shrink wrapped). The snow is kept out of the cockpit, so the cockpit drains
don't ice up. The PVC pipes keep the tarp from touching the hull, as they
extend beyond the tarp. An advantage of keeping the foredeck open is that the
solar panel I installed on the foreword hatch stay exposed, so the batteries
stay trickle charged all winter. I get into the boat either on the foredeck,
where it is open, or over the stern transom.
It takes me about 2 hours to install this in late fall, but is now
pretty routine. Taking it apart in the spring is easy.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA
> From: Martin DeYoung
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 4:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter covers
>
> What has been the experience with PVC pipe frames?
>
> Calypso is in the PNW where more than a few inches of snow is rare. I will
> be erecting a cover to allow some deck work this winter. I am considering
> PVC pipe frames and high quality tarps as the best compromise between cost
> and longevity (1 to 2 PNW Nov to March seasons).
>
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
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