Fred is probably right but it would be fun to try a bump key on these. It would be a lot simpler to make. You just take a blank key and cut each pin location deep enough so when fully engaged it would push the pins in about 1/16 inch. Then grind the piece that locks in in until fully turned off. Then one would put some rubber washers on it so that it just lifts off the pins from the washers lifting it. One could most likely tension by hand but like Fred says, one could easily over shoot and then have to pick it again. Dwight ________________________________ From: cctalk <cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org> on behalf of Fred Cisin via cctalk <cctalk@classiccmp.org> Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 3:57 PM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: Picking tubular locks (WAS : Text encoding Babel. now PICKING LOCKS OR FINDING KEY MFR AND KEY #
The Chicago Ace (tubular) lock is USUALLY easier to pick (with the right tension wrench), since you have access to all of the pins, without having to reach past a pin to get to another. The commercial tools are just a tube with slots and sliders, with variable friction. Almost trivial to make your own (as I did in High School), although a well machined one will be a joy to use. As such, sometimes just sliding that into the lock (WITH THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF TORQUE) will get each pin to stop when it aligns. Bumping seems more hassle for this. As Dwight mentioned, picking or bumping without a pick tool that stays aligned with the pins (like the commercial ones), opens up the additional possibility of pins then coming back up and entering some other pin's chamber. The commercial tool ALSO leaves the sliders in position, so you can "duplicate" a key from it. OR measure/read out positions to decode. If you add calibrations to the commercial tool, then you can use it as a temporary key for anything for which you already have the code (suc as XX2247!) On Sun, 2 Dec 2018, dwight via cctalk wrote: > Looking at how things work, there is a new method used to pick locks that > works a little to well. It is a thing called a bump key. To make one for this > cylinder lock would be tricky. Still, it could be done. > The principle is that you bounce the tumbler pins in, while holding light > tension. The inertia of the pins pushes the pins in. As they return, the tend > to catch were the would normally turn. > I've seen one on the web demonstrated. They are quite remarkable as to how > easy they work. ( way too easy ) > The idea of making one for your lock is to allow the cylinder to only turn > part way between pin angles. Once it has rotated that much, you can then > measure the pin depth and make the key. > You could make one from a blank key and use a rubber washer to improve the > action. You'd remove the piece that holds the key in the lock and make a > holder block that would allow a partial turn so that it would stop, at the > right angle, between locations to make measurements for the new key. > It is not the traditional picking method but having seen it in action makes > traditional feeling the pins obsolete. > Dwight > > ________________________________ > From: cctalk <cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org> on behalf of ED SHARPE via > cctalk <cctalk@classiccmp.org> > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2018 6:07 PM > To: gu...@optusnet.com.au; cctalk@classiccmp.org; cctalk@classiccmp.org > Subject: WAS : Text encoding Babel. now PICKING LOCKS OR FINDING KEY MFR AND > KEY # > > Yikes and I am complaining about trying to pick the lock on the UNIVAC > 422 anyone have a key # for it? That type on that 8S looks tough... > > > Ed# www.smecc.org<http://www.smecc.org> > > > In a message dated 11/30/2018 6:53:34 PM US Mountain Standard Time, > cctalk@classiccmp.org writes: > > > And now, back to machining a lock pick for a PDP-8/S front panel cylinder > lock. > > http://everist.org/NobLog/20181104_PDP-8S.htm#locks
