snap-cap removal goes like this: heat up the joints and solder-suck them
clean as possible. Then hold on to the cap body, and attempt to rock it
back & forth has you re-heat one pin and then the other(s). Once all the
pins are broke free, you can extract it.

On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 5:41 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk <
cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote:

> Good idea to drain them first, I will do that. Having never encountered
> snap-ins before I don't know, but from the way you describe removal I
> suspect they are snap-in, as the leads are quite tightly against the sides
> of the holes and won't move even if I have heated them up. I hope that
> cutting the tops off will eventually expose the individual pins so they
> will
> be more easily removed.
>
>
>
> Regards
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> From: dwight [mailto:dkel...@hotmail.com]
> Sent: 29 August 2017 22:25
> To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt <robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com>; General
> Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk@classiccmp.org>
> Subject: Re: PSU Input Rectifier Question
>
>
>
> They would have electrolyte in them. It is mildly corrosive as it is mostly
> a borate solution. You can drill a couple holes in the tops of the case and
> drain them.
>
> Since you say you've unsoldered the bases, are they wire or snap in. If
> snap
> in, you must get the lead clear of any solder touching the edge of the hole
> before you can think of any prying.
>
> Dwight
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: cctalk <cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org
> <mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org> > on behalf of Rob Jarratt via
> cctalk
> <cctalk@classiccmp.org <mailto:cctalk@classiccmp.org> >
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 1:01:14 PM
> To: 'Maciej W. Rozycki'; 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'
> Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question
>
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Maciej W. Rozycki [mailto:ma...@linux-mips.org]
> > Sent: 29 August 2017 01:06
> > To: r...@jarratt.me.uk <mailto:r...@jarratt.me.uk> ; Rob Jarratt
> <robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com <mailto:robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com> >;
> General
> > Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk@classiccmp.org
> <mailto:cctalk@classiccmp.org> >
> > Cc: 'Tapley, Mark' <mtap...@swri.edu <mailto:mtap...@swri.edu> >
> > Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question
> >
> > On Tue, 29 Aug 2017, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote:
> >
> > > Not really no. The base of the capacitors is actually touching the
> > > board, so I can't get under it to cut anything anyway, which is why I
> > > am thinking I would have to cut the tops off them. Even if I could cut
> > > one of the leads, I can't solder a capacitor underneath as that is
> > > where the board is mounted into the enclosure, there is only room for
> > > the mounting standoffs on the underside.
> >
> >  If you need to replace the caps anyway, then I think just cutting
> through
> the
> > outer PET sleeve should do as chances are it's only the sleeve that's got
> glued
> > and not the leads or the closing cap.  Then you might be able to just
> pull
> the
> > inner aluminium can containing the capacitor itself from the sleeve and
> with
> > the component proper out of the way get rid of any remains from the PCB.
> >
>
> Thanks Maciej,
>
> I would just like to make doubly sure, before cutting into the outer body
> of
> the caps, am I likely to hit any gotchas? Just how wet are they inside, do
> I
> need to take any precautions with the electrolyte?
>
>
> >  NB the originals are just snap-in capacitors AFAIK, e.g. Chemi-Con KMH
> series
> > (I can't figure that out from your photos and luckily none of my H7878s
> has
> > failed so far, so I haven't made this a part list for this PSU for
> myself), still
> > manufactured, so modern replacements should do.  With the PCB hole
> > diameter supposed to be 2mm by the manufacturer's spec I wouldn't be
> > bothered with a small lead pitch variation, you can always bend the leads
> > slightly as there's some space between the closing cap and the rim that
> rests
> > against the PCB.
> >
>
>
> I did wonder if there would be enough tolerance. I have never encountered
> these snap-in ones before, I don't know what they are like. Sounds like I
> can try some snap-ins, which widens the choice immeasurably.
>
>
> >  Also I would't be bothered about the LED holder getting damaged; it's a
> > standard piece, available online.  I can dig out the part numbers,
> separate for
> > individual pieces of the holder (you can match different kinds against
> each
> > other, depending on your needs), if that would help; I ordered a bunch a
> while
> > ago for my own use.
> >
>
> I found some LED holders/clips which do seem to fit the bill, although I am
> not sure I see how you get the old LED out, unless you have to break the
> thing.
>
> Regards
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>

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