snap-cap removal goes like this: heat up the joints and solder-suck them clean as possible. Then hold on to the cap body, and attempt to rock it back & forth has you re-heat one pin and then the other(s). Once all the pins are broke free, you can extract it.
On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 5:41 PM, Rob Jarratt via cctalk < cctalk@classiccmp.org> wrote: > Good idea to drain them first, I will do that. Having never encountered > snap-ins before I don't know, but from the way you describe removal I > suspect they are snap-in, as the leads are quite tightly against the sides > of the holes and won't move even if I have heated them up. I hope that > cutting the tops off will eventually expose the individual pins so they > will > be more easily removed. > > > > Regards > > > > Rob > > > > From: dwight [mailto:dkel...@hotmail.com] > Sent: 29 August 2017 22:25 > To: r...@jarratt.me.uk; Rob Jarratt <robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com>; General > Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk@classiccmp.org> > Subject: Re: PSU Input Rectifier Question > > > > They would have electrolyte in them. It is mildly corrosive as it is mostly > a borate solution. You can drill a couple holes in the tops of the case and > drain them. > > Since you say you've unsoldered the bases, are they wire or snap in. If > snap > in, you must get the lead clear of any solder touching the edge of the hole > before you can think of any prying. > > Dwight > > > > _____ > > From: cctalk <cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org > <mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org> > on behalf of Rob Jarratt via > cctalk > <cctalk@classiccmp.org <mailto:cctalk@classiccmp.org> > > Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 1:01:14 PM > To: 'Maciej W. Rozycki'; 'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts' > Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Maciej W. Rozycki [mailto:ma...@linux-mips.org] > > Sent: 29 August 2017 01:06 > > To: r...@jarratt.me.uk <mailto:r...@jarratt.me.uk> ; Rob Jarratt > <robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com <mailto:robert.jarr...@ntlworld.com> >; > General > > Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts <cctalk@classiccmp.org > <mailto:cctalk@classiccmp.org> > > > Cc: 'Tapley, Mark' <mtap...@swri.edu <mailto:mtap...@swri.edu> > > > Subject: RE: PSU Input Rectifier Question > > > > On Tue, 29 Aug 2017, Rob Jarratt via cctalk wrote: > > > > > Not really no. The base of the capacitors is actually touching the > > > board, so I can't get under it to cut anything anyway, which is why I > > > am thinking I would have to cut the tops off them. Even if I could cut > > > one of the leads, I can't solder a capacitor underneath as that is > > > where the board is mounted into the enclosure, there is only room for > > > the mounting standoffs on the underside. > > > > If you need to replace the caps anyway, then I think just cutting > through > the > > outer PET sleeve should do as chances are it's only the sleeve that's got > glued > > and not the leads or the closing cap. Then you might be able to just > pull > the > > inner aluminium can containing the capacitor itself from the sleeve and > with > > the component proper out of the way get rid of any remains from the PCB. > > > > Thanks Maciej, > > I would just like to make doubly sure, before cutting into the outer body > of > the caps, am I likely to hit any gotchas? Just how wet are they inside, do > I > need to take any precautions with the electrolyte? > > > > NB the originals are just snap-in capacitors AFAIK, e.g. Chemi-Con KMH > series > > (I can't figure that out from your photos and luckily none of my H7878s > has > > failed so far, so I haven't made this a part list for this PSU for > myself), still > > manufactured, so modern replacements should do. With the PCB hole > > diameter supposed to be 2mm by the manufacturer's spec I wouldn't be > > bothered with a small lead pitch variation, you can always bend the leads > > slightly as there's some space between the closing cap and the rim that > rests > > against the PCB. > > > > > I did wonder if there would be enough tolerance. I have never encountered > these snap-in ones before, I don't know what they are like. Sounds like I > can try some snap-ins, which widens the choice immeasurably. > > > > Also I would't be bothered about the LED holder getting damaged; it's a > > standard piece, available online. I can dig out the part numbers, > separate for > > individual pieces of the holder (you can match different kinds against > each > > other, depending on your needs), if that would help; I ordered a bunch a > while > > ago for my own use. > > > > I found some LED holders/clips which do seem to fit the bill, although I am > not sure I see how you get the old LED out, unless you have to break the > thing. > > Regards > > Rob > > > >
