6 October 2004 - Bethlehem

Well, it took a couple days and some calls/notes from friends, but I've 
recovered emotionally from the not-so-peaceful events surrounding the 
peaceful demonstration last week in Budrus.

Things go at their own pace here.  Unfortunately, this means that things I 
was hoping to accomplish this week will have to wait until next week.  The 
penpals in Bethlehem are going to be with two schools (one boy's, one 
girl's) in the Ayda refugee camp.  These schools are public/government 
schools and as we all know, where there is government, there is beauracracy. 
  Turns out I need an official letter from some reputable organization that 
endorses/supports this penpal exchange.  I'm working on getting that letter. 
  The sister city meeting in Bethlehem is delayed until room appears in the 
mayor's schedule.  Hopefully some time next week.

The weekend here is actually 3 days - Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.  Friday 
is the holy day of the Muslims, Saturday the Jews, and Sunday the 
Christians.  I mention this because, last Friday when I was strolling around 
the old city, I noticed a huge amount of soldiers and police at the Muslim 
gates.  There are always soldiers and police everywhere, but this was 
noteworthy because there were at least 100 at each of the Muslim gates.  
Only a handful at the other gates.  The Israeli army's enormous presence at 
the Muslim gates on the Muslim holy day was yet another sign of harassment.  
Real classy.

Earlier this week, I met some kids at the Alrowwad Cultural Center which is 
located in the Ayda refugee camp.  Refugee camps are basically slums, but 
cleaner.  People that live in a refugee camp have had their homes either 
stolen or destroyed by the occupying Israelis.  Anyway, the cultural center 
is like a breath of fresh air here.  Kids have a place to practice dance, 
art, song, and theater and just hang out with their friends.  The cultural 
center's building is much like every other building in the camp with one big 
exception.  There are murals and beautiful artwork on the walls inside, 
outside, and in the immediate surroundings.  Pictures of scenes with trees, 
lakes, animals, and generally uplifting things.  Very touching.  Kids from 
this theatre troupe are planning to come to the states next summer for a 
month long tour assuming enough funds can be raised in the US to bring them 
over.

Monday night I "slept" in the Ayda camp.  People were talking and running 
around until at least midnight.  At 4am, there was a call to prayer.  This 
is where someone chants verses of the Koran over a loudspeaker.  At 4am!!  
Throughout the night, I heard harsh voices from a moving loudspeaker.  This 
was the Israeli army patrolling the camp and yelling things at all hours of 
the night.  Turns out that a 17-year-old boy was arrested that night and his 
home was exploded from the inside.  I didn't hear the explosion, thankfully. 
  Not a memory I want imprinted.

So, hopefully the penpals and sister city visits will be accomplished by the 
end of next week.  After that is olive harvest.  Still not sure where or if 
I'll be doing it.  The original choices of Jenin, Tulkarum, and Nablus are 
way beyond the risk level that my body, mind, and spirit can accept.  Some 
other locations (Salfit and Jayyus) are possibilities, though.  I need to 
learn more before I decide.

I've had ice cream just about every day that I've been here.  Nice 
compliment to the fast food of falafel and shwerma (gyro) that I've been 
eating.

Peace.
Joe

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