Never mind. Apache didn't have permissions to create the error log.
Here's how to resolve it:
mkdir /var/log/php5
chown root:www-data /var/log/php5
chmod 775 /var/log/php5
Now edit php.ini:
error_log = /var/log/php5/php_errors.log
Sorry for the noise.
** Changed in: apache2 (Ubuntu)
Status: Incomplete => Invalid
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apache overriding php's error_log setting
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/512167
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