I just got it. Thank you Bob W for your advice. I just about went nuts
trying to track this one down - been at it for about 2 hours. Well... I
learned a lot in the process I suppose.

I believe I triggered it by mistakenly deleting "Desktop". Nothing
happened but my very few desktop icons disappeared and at that time I
didn't associate the two events (in fact I don't remember deleting
Desktop - I just remember my desktop icons disappearing). Later,
(presumably after a reboot or logout?) the icons all appeared on my
desktop and I started looking into it. Then - I discovered a folder
called "file:" in my home directory. It contained a folder called
"coulthard" (or maybe it was "home"? - sorry my memory is a bit weak on
this one) it contained an empty folder called "Desktop". I deleted them,
and recreated Desktop in my home folder. Then flailing around with the
gconf-editor to no avail was very frustrating. Looks normal now - thank
goodness.

-- 
Gnome Thinks Home Directory Is Desktop
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/151576
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