fyi: http://askubuntu.com/questions/34214/how-do-i-disable-overlay-
scrollbars

Just disabling or removing the overlay-scrollbars as described by the
other answers will get you back the scroll bars, but they will be
missing the stepper buttons at the end of the bars because they have
been disabled in the Ambiance theme. To re-enable them, put the
following in the ~/.gtkrc-2.0 file:

style "default" {
  engine "murrine" {
    stepperstyle = 0
  }
}

and the following into the file ~/.config/gtk-3.0/gtk.css:

.scrollbar {
  -GtkScrollbar-has-backward-stepper: 1;
  -GtkScrollbar-has-forward-stepper: 1;
}

Usually, restarting the applications is enough for the changes to apply.
        
To make the stepper buttons better-looking, add this to .scrollbar: 
-GtkRange-slider-width: 16; -GtkRange-stepper-size: 17; –  Håkon A. Hjortland 
Aug 21 '12 at 7:56

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1053302

Title:
  ubuntu-overlay-scrollbars set to false shows no arrows in several
  cases

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