As suggested privately by riastradh@, I ran the tar command under dtrace dtrace -n 'profile:::profile-97 { @[stack()] = count() }' -c ... and got output I can't make sense of. I attach the last (top-count) lines.
The first thing I don't understand is why the top (or the two top) hits are in idle_loop. Is that because the other fives cores are idle? The second question is what the single number without a backtrace means. And the third question is that I would have expected a large amount of hits in the write system call if the problem really was stdio to issue small writes.
netbsd`0xffffffff8021ff62 netbsd`intr_biglock_wrapper+0x16 netbsd`Xhandle_ioapic_level5+0x6a netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle_enter+0xdb netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle+0xdb netbsd`idle_loop+0x111 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 287 netbsd`0xffffffff8022008f netbsd`AcpiHwReadPort+0xc1 netbsd`AcpiHwRead+0x11f netbsd`acpitimer_read_fast+0x11 netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle_enter+0x82 netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle+0xdb netbsd`idle_loop+0x111 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 292 netbsd`0xffffffff8021ff62 netbsd`intr_biglock_wrapper+0x16 netbsd`Xhandle_ioapic_level5+0x6a netbsd`biodone2+0x6d netbsd`biointr+0x33 netbsd`softint_dispatch+0x91 netbsd`Xsoftintr+0x4f 297 netbsd`0xffffffff8022008f netbsd`AcpiHwReadPort+0xc1 netbsd`AcpiHwRead+0x11f netbsd`acpitimer_read_fast+0x11 netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle_enter+0x1c netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle+0xdb netbsd`idle_loop+0x111 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 314 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`lookup_once+0x18d netbsd`namei_tryemulroot.constprop.9+0x3c5 netbsd`namei+0x43 netbsd`fd_nameiat.isra.2+0x54 netbsd`do_sys_renameat.isra.6+0x155 netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 431 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`relookup+0x42 netbsd`do_sys_renameat.isra.6+0x2ef netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 436 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`relookup+0x42 netbsd`ufs_gro_lookup+0x3c netbsd`genfs_sane_rename+0x1e7 netbsd`ufs_sane_rename+0x3a netbsd`genfs_insane_rename+0x93 netbsd`VOP_RENAME+0x7c netbsd`do_sys_renameat.isra.6+0x4d1 netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 443 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`lookup_once+0x18d netbsd`namei_tryemulroot.constprop.9+0x3c5 netbsd`namei+0x43 netbsd`vn_open+0xa3 netbsd`do_open+0x112 netbsd`do_sys_openat+0x68 netbsd`sys_open+0x24 netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 486 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`relookup+0x42 netbsd`ufs_gro_lookup+0x3c netbsd`genfs_sane_rename+0x1a5 netbsd`ufs_sane_rename+0x3a netbsd`genfs_insane_rename+0x93 netbsd`VOP_RENAME+0x7c netbsd`do_sys_renameat.isra.6+0x4d1 netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 512 netbsd`ufs_lookup+0x2f7 netbsd`VOP_LOOKUP+0x4d netbsd`lookup_once+0x18d netbsd`namei_tryemulroot.constprop.9+0x3c5 netbsd`namei+0x43 netbsd`fd_nameiat.isra.2+0x54 netbsd`do_sys_renameat.isra.6+0xc3 netbsd`syscall+0x1ec netbsd`handle_syscall+0x2d 556 netbsd`0xffffffff8021ff62 netbsd`biodone2+0x6d netbsd`biointr+0x33 netbsd`softint_dispatch+0x91 netbsd`Xsoftintr+0x4f 560 611 netbsd`0xffffffff8021ff3e netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle_enter+0xdb netbsd`acpicpu_cstate_idle+0xdb netbsd`idle_loop+0x111 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 86750
netbsd`Xspllower+0xe netbsd`md_root_setconf 203 netbsd`uvm_map_space_avail.constprop.0+0x5c netbsd`uvm_map+0xd8 netbsd`uvm_pagermapin+0x97 netbsd`genfs_gop_write+0x2d netbsd`genfs_do_putpages+0x661 netbsd`VOP_PUTPAGES+0x43 netbsd`ffs_full_fsync+0x146 netbsd`VOP_FSYNC+0x47 netbsd`sched_sync+0x15b netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 362 netbsd`_kernel_lock+0xca netbsd`cv_wait+0xb7 netbsd`DAGExecutionThread+0x136 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 507 netbsd`_kernel_lock+0xca netbsd`spec_strategy+0x58 netbsd`VOP_STRATEGY+0x3c netbsd`dkstart+0x13e netbsd`bdev_strategy+0x81 netbsd`spec_strategy+0x58 netbsd`VOP_STRATEGY+0x3c netbsd`genfs_do_io+0x16a netbsd`genfs_gop_write+0x52 netbsd`genfs_do_putpages+0x661 netbsd`VOP_PUTPAGES+0x43 netbsd`ffs_full_fsync+0x146 netbsd`VOP_FSYNC+0x47 netbsd`sched_sync+0x15b netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 926 netbsd`_kernel_lock+0xca netbsd`cv_wait+0xb7 netbsd`rf_RaidIOThread+0x14e netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 1691 2124 netbsd`x86_stihlt+0x6 netbsd`idle_loop+0xb7 netbsd`lwp_trampoline+0x17 3894 netbsd`x86_stihlt+0x6 netbsd`idle_loop+0xb7 netbsd`md_root_setconf 25933