Mike, Thank you for the encouragement. You and our family of technicians on the list are to blame for my success in making my first batch of LVDC CS :)
Otherwise, I would have had a lot of trial-and-error to endure. You all have saved me a lot of GRIEF! Thanks!!! I appreciate your critique of the setup. Your good recommendations and explanations are a big help. This first batch of LVDC CS has a light gray tint to it, but is otherwise clear. While it was brewing, I had no clue where it was re: PPM. It has been about six weeks since I stopped the process. So far, its appearance is unchanged . . . . I ran the process, looking to achieve the current bogie that I had calculated (incorrectly, obviously). I agree. I should rather have 10 PPM, clean electrodes, and an inexpensive generator that I can afford to give away. I will keep at it until I can make it as bulletproof as I can. The electrodes are 1.5 inches apart, I will move them in to 0.75", and make the other changes. By the way, re: the salt test that you recommend, I poured a little into a glass (1.5"), and hit it with a few shakes of sea salt. It responded with a bluish tint on its way to a white cast that was no longer transparent. Like watered-down skim milk. A far different reaction than from the Utopia HVAC 10 PPM CS, which resolved to a slightly cloudy fluid with heavy TE. Incidentally, the 60 PPM has a very light TE, using the beam of my $10 Harbor Freight laser level, while the 10 PPM has a relatively heavy TE. Evidently the HVAC unit produces a great deal more particles (I have no clue re: size). I suspect that one reason for the light TE is that the sludge-coating on the electrode may have caused heavy agglomeration??? Or, perhaps it is strictly due to the low current density??? I know that Bob Berger cautions those of us using HVAC, because of his discoveries re: the formation of NO3 and NO, unless produce in an oxygen free cell. Litmus paper shows both products above to be under 6.0 pH, what would be best to use to modify it to around 7 pH? My family, friends and I have been enjoying better health, due to CS from the Utopia unit, for over three years now. I Joined the SilverList to learn how to make an inexpensive, reliable generator. Thanks to Mike Devour, for providing this forum and to the contributions of you all, I'm on my way :) Best regards, :) Marv ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Monett" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 4:01 PM Subject: Re: CS>Sludge on LVDC Electrodes url: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/m60189.html CS>Sludge on LVDC Electrodes From: Marv Hacker (view other messages by this author) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 20:10:18 > To: Mike Monett > Mike, > I have some photos of CS electrode coated with sludge, using LVDC. > I tried sending them to your last reported address > ([email protected]), but the email was bounced. How may I > get the info to you? Marv, Congratulations! You did it on the first attempt. I am sooooooo envious. It took me many tries to accomplish what you did. I hope you don't mind if I uploaded your pictures to help others see what you have accomplished. Here is a picture of your beautiful Gray Gunk: http://www3.sympatico.ca/add.automation/misc/2ece54fc.jpg And a picture of your setup: http://www3.sympatico.ca/add.automation/misc/2ece54f5.jpg What has happened is you let the brew run for a very long time. At very low current density, this creates a small amount of gray goop on the cathode. I believe Ole Bob mentioned this is silver atoms captured by hydrogen bubbles. When you reach this point, some of the current is wasted making the goop. But you can reach very high ion concentration, as shown by your Hanna PWT measurement of 60 ppm. Congratulations - you have joined an elite crowd. Not many people have made 60 ppm, especially on their first try. As you can see, no stirring is needed. If you ran at much higher current density, such as the 1.4 mA/sq. in that I used to use, the system would have collapsed into black sludge long before this and you would have to throw it away. The cs doesn't need to be this strong to be very effective. 60 ppm is far too strong to drink and may give you a tummyache. But you might pour it in a separate container and keep it covered with saran wrap to prevent evaporation. It may start turning yellow in a few days. Please let us know what happens to it. Put about 1 inch in a glass and add three shakes of salt. You should get an instant response - the dispersion should be strong milky white. You might even have to add more salt. Can I make some suggestions? Your system is fine the way you designed it, and would work well. But you could improve it with the following: 1. Double the length of 12 ga wire to form a "W". This doubles the wetted area and makes it easier to get the proper value of series resistor. The 12 ga wire is strong enough to hold shape pretty well. 2. Move the electrodes closer together - say to about 0.75 inch. This reduces the initial resistance which also makes it easier to get the proper resistor value. The strength of 12 ga helps keep the proper spacing, but you won't have to wipe the electrodes very much at these low currents. The close spacing helps by reducing the ratio between the initial voltage and final voltage, which helps keep the current constant during the run. Here is an example on my system: -------------------------------------------------------------------- Wed Jun 04, 2003, 01:00:57 pm started run on 9V, 33k series resistor. Wed Jun 04, 2003, 01:01:35 pm 1.715V 196uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 04:22:41 pm 1.155V 213uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 05:06:06 pm 1.045V 216uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 05:51:35 pm 0.9927 218uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 06:12:32 pm 0.9626 218uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 07:40:11 pm 0.8565 221uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 08:10:43 pm 0.8491 221uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 08:34:13 pm 0.8348 222uA Wed Jun 04, 2003, 08:42:21 pm 0.8040 222uA 7.75 * 3600 * 220e-6 = 6.138 Coulombs -------------------------------------------------------------------- However, the purity of your dw also affects the initial value. I look for medium quality dw which seems to work well. 3. Put a mark on the outside of the glass to show the fill point. Ideally, it should be above the middle loop of the "W", but you have to leave enough room so the water doesn't hit the top when it sloshes while moving. You can add a mark very easily. Clean the outside of the glass with isopropyl alcohol. Take an ordinary indelible marker and rest it against something high enough. Bring the glass up to the tip and rotate it. You should get a smooth black circle around the glass. Cover it with transparent Scotch tape, and never put the glass in the dishwasher. Pour some water in the glass and measure the quantity to the fill point. This will help in making Coulomb calculations later. 4. To keep the top screws from rusting due to the humidity inside the jar, coat them with acrylic nail polish. Any color will do. I prefer screaming purple so it is easy to tell when they are completely covered. 5. When you settle on the value for the series resistor, you might be able to mount it directly on the 9V battery clip, and thread the alligator leads through two small holes in the fiber material. Cover it with hot glue to seal it against moisture. Make sure you cut the alligator leads to different length to reduce the chance the ends will make contact and drain the battery. Congratulations, Marv. You did a fine job! Best Regards, Mike Monett -- The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. Instructions for unsubscribing may be found at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: [email protected] Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
