All of this refers to shingle roofs, which we don't see much of. We mostly
deal with concrete and corrugated steel/galvalume, the latter being a
nightmare. Does anyone have good ideas for dealing with corrugated? There's
no way to flash it, the blocks are fine when you hit a beam on the ridge
but h
Todd,
The issue isn't whether your approach works, but whether it is defensible in
the event that something leaks. Most solar contractors receive public funds
(rebate monies, ARRA program distributions, etc.). Some of those companies are
installing systems in a manner that is not building code
"Most solar contractors receive public funds" I'll have to take issue with that one. I know of no such contractors in my part of the US."The issue isn't whether your approach works, but whether it is defensible in the event that something leaks."Our "redneck" methods may not satisfy the big city
David
I agree with you David that flashed roof attachment are the preferred
attachment method and definitly the best practice method. As an industry
we should be promoting that. Todd's point that they can work fine is also
valid, although I would still recommend flashing if a decent product is
a
The text doesn’t imply that the wood will not split, it simply says it can be
driven in without a pilot hole. For that matter a sheet metal screw can be
driven into wood without a pilot hole.
The reason that the pilot hole offers an advantage is because there will be
threads cut into the entire
30 years of industry precedence is defensible. The L foot is essentially a
sealed flashing as well, so we're really talking interpretation. I've done it
many different ways, worked on decades old systems, and even though I was a
flashing man for many years, I'm back to thinking the venerable L
In some cases, you can install blocking to get up on the ridge consistently.
One alternative to hangar bolts is to use corrugated mounting bridges from DPW
Solar or something similar from another company.
Sorry I can't link to the PDF. Google: "corrugated mounting bridges"
Since exposed-fastene
Presumably most solar contractors benefit from increased sales due to the
availability of a 30% federal tax credit. Arguably, that's not the same thing
as "receiving public funds," but the net effect is the same. My point is simply
that as an industry we are dependent upon public support and a v
David,
Why does your editor put Todd's articles (and use him as a cover story)
in your magazines (more than once, I believe) if it is not for his
__experience__?
The fact that there is a prescribed product (more than one in this case)
that gets blessed when old fashioned, time tested, craft
Bill,
FWIW: none of the companies with flashed attachments solutions mentioned in the
article we ran in SP1.1 were advertisers.
Having said that, I do see a lot of articles in trade publications that are
pretty shameless exercises in product placement. I've always found that
off-putting and
I use corrugated mounting bridges - that's the problem. If the center of
the beam falls in the trough, the corrugated bridge is useless.
I am not sure how blocking would help. Corrugated is a pain.
On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 12:11 PM, David Brearley <
david.brear...@solarprofessional.com> wrote:
>
Hi Wrenches,
Have a client who wants to install an outdoor wood furnace for hydronic heating
in his shop and home. Wondering if any have had experience with these. It seems
like an intensive off-grid load because of fans and/or pumps. Any experience or
model recommendations is appreciated, than
Been there on 2 occasions, the pumps may seem like small loads but there are
usually many of them that (at least in this area) add up to a heck of a load
for anything but a huge off grid system.
Don't worry the problems that result will all be the power systems and/or
the system installers fault.
I worked on one off grid system like this, it worked, but you have to have a
big battery bank. Also, a really good generator is mandatory.
Ray
On Jul 4, 2012, at 5:59 PM, bob ellison wrote:
> Been there on 2 occasions, the pumps may seem like small loads but there are
> usually many of them th
Chris,
I'm pretty sure that what David means by "blocking" is if the roof has
rafters (peak to eave) rather than purlins (horizontal) then, IF you can
access the underside of the roof, you properly install 'blocking' (2x4, 2x6,
2x8) against the underside of the roof sheathing, perpendicular to the
I've never had that luxury, generally the underside is visible and can't be
changed. We get through but it's a pain.
On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 8:36 PM, benn kilburn wrote:
> Chris,
> I'm pretty sure that what David means by "blocking" is if the roof has
> rafters (peak to eave) rather than purlins
I have a Central Boiler brand of outdoor wood furnace. It has an electric
damper that has to be powered whenever the fire is burning, which draws about
50 watts and a small circulator pump that draws a bit less than 100 watts.
I stopped using it years ago because it consumed so much wood, but it
This is very interesting to me. I just added 2kW to my home and this thread
inspired me. I did half the array using quick mount PV, and half the array
using oatey flashing and a two piece stand-off. Along with that array I added
a single module on a micro I picked up cheap. I attached that mo
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