This is very interesting to me. I just added 2kW to my home and this thread
inspired me. I did half the array using quick mount PV, and half the array
using oatey flashing and a two piece stand-off. Along with that array I added
a single module on a micro I picked up cheap. I attached that mo
I've never had that luxury, generally the underside is visible and can't be
changed. We get through but it's a pain.
On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 8:36 PM, benn kilburn wrote:
> Chris,
> I'm pretty sure that what David means by "blocking" is if the roof has
> rafters (peak to eave) rather than purlins
Chris,
I'm pretty sure that what David means by "blocking" is if the roof has
rafters (peak to eave) rather than purlins (horizontal) then, IF you can
access the underside of the roof, you properly install 'blocking' (2x4, 2x6,
2x8) against the underside of the roof sheathing, perpendicular to the
I use corrugated mounting bridges - that's the problem. If the center of
the beam falls in the trough, the corrugated bridge is useless.
I am not sure how blocking would help. Corrugated is a pain.
On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 12:11 PM, David Brearley <
david.brear...@solarprofessional.com> wrote:
>
Bill,
FWIW: none of the companies with flashed attachments solutions mentioned in the
article we ran in SP1.1 were advertisers.
Having said that, I do see a lot of articles in trade publications that are
pretty shameless exercises in product placement. I've always found that
off-putting and
David,
Why does your editor put Todd's articles (and use him as a cover story)
in your magazines (more than once, I believe) if it is not for his
__experience__?
The fact that there is a prescribed product (more than one in this case)
that gets blessed when old fashioned, time tested, craft
Presumably most solar contractors benefit from increased sales due to the
availability of a 30% federal tax credit. Arguably, that's not the same thing
as "receiving public funds," but the net effect is the same. My point is simply
that as an industry we are dependent upon public support and a v
In some cases, you can install blocking to get up on the ridge consistently.
One alternative to hangar bolts is to use corrugated mounting bridges from DPW
Solar or something similar from another company.
Sorry I can't link to the PDF. Google: "corrugated mounting bridges"
Since exposed-fastene
30 years of industry precedence is defensible. The L foot is essentially a
sealed flashing as well, so we're really talking interpretation. I've done it
many different ways, worked on decades old systems, and even though I was a
flashing man for many years, I'm back to thinking the venerable L
;
NABCEP PV 031310-57
TECL-27398
nt...@1scom.net
817.917.0527
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Benn At
DayStarSolar
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 5:36 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet
David
I agree with you David that flashed roof attachment are the preferred
attachment method and definitly the best practice method. As an industry
we should be promoting that. Todd's point that they can work fine is also
valid, although I would still recommend flashing if a decent product is
a
ot; methods may not satisfy the big city folks, but no failures in 20 years means more to our customers than satisfying some bureaucrat's requirements.
-------- Original Message ----
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
From: David Brearley <david.brear...@so
Todd,
The issue isn't whether your approach works, but whether it is defensible in
the event that something leaks. Most solar contractors receive public funds
(rebate monies, ARRA program distributions, etc.). Some of those companies are
installing systems in a manner that is not building code
All of this refers to shingle roofs, which we don't see much of. We mostly
deal with concrete and corrugated steel/galvalume, the latter being a
nightmare. Does anyone have good ideas for dealing with corrugated? There's
no way to flash it, the blocks are fine when you hit a beam on the ridge
but h
i wasn't going to enter into this discussion, but this posting prompted me.
my most recent job was done with the assistance of the customer. he and i have
a long working history, my being his employee some 25 years ago installing shw
systems in the area, and now he hiring me to do his personal
d it causes rain to collect
>>>> under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the
>>>> wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather
>>>> than Michigan, but close.
>>>> I use the best silicone caulk Men
bit to
drive.
Rich
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Benn At
DayStarSolar
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 6:36 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
I haven't re
I haven't read up on the mentioned structural screws yet, but do they
specifically state that they can be driven "without" a pilot hole? What is the
justification and how are they different so that they won't cause a board to
split under pressure?
Does anyone have some good info on this?
benn
+1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a couple
years ago:
http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly
One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how variable
lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides th
Getting back to the flashing aspect of this thread, the comment about
improperly installed flashings doing more harm than good and the general
comments about L feet straight to the roof…
Yes, if you install ANYTHING wrong it's counterproductive but if you read the
instructions and use common
The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not
necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the
flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding
sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16"
GRK RSS (self
gth. No reason to make a
>> science project out of it and increase cost and labor.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Original Message
>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>> From: Drake
>> Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm
>> To
I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried
>>> about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the
>>> black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk
>>> is yellowed a bit but that'
t;> > In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in
>> > Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never
>> > had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole
>> > first is not necessary, and reduces holdi
cost and labor.
>
> Mark
>
> Original Message ----
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
> From: Drake
> Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm
> To: RE-wrenches
>
> Hi Jay,
>
> There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close t
e never> had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole> first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make> a science project out of it and increase cost and labor.>> Mark>> Original Message > Subject: Re: [
f cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk
is yellowed a bit but that's the only change.
If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them
complain.
Mark
(Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.)
e so it eventually
became loose.
Max Balchowsky
Design Engineer
SEE Systems
1048 Irvine Ave Suite 217
Newport Beach, Ca. 92660
760-403-6810
From: Drake
To: RE-wrenches
Sent: Monday, July 2, 2012 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
k
> (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.)
>
> Original Message
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
> From: Dave Click
> Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am
> To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> I always tho
How do you flash your L feet without using a standoff?
At 07:49 AM 7/2/2012, you wrote:
I've found that the Flashed L-Foot connection costs about $0.10/w on
a typical residential system, and only adds about 1/4-1/2" to the
height, which can be minimized using the slotted holes in a typical
L-F
the preceding are the opinions of the author.)
-------- Original Message ----
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
From: Dave Click <davecl...@fsec.ucf.edu>
Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am
To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
I always thought that installing lag
For many years I installed L-feet with galvanized step flashings adhered under
the shingle row above the penetration. This provides a mechanical barrier and
can be very durable if the flashing is well secured.
- Andrew
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 28, 2012, at 5:39 PM, Drake wrote:
> I'm qu
rst is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make
a science project out of it and increase cost and labor.
Mark
Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
From: Drake mailto:drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org
I've found that the Flashed L-Foot connection costs about $0.10/w on a
typical residential system, and only adds about 1/4-1/2" to the height,
which can be minimized using the slotted holes in a typical L-Foot. We need
a lot of attachments for 172 mph design wind speeds around here. Flashings
at $5
ience project out of it and increase cost and labor.Mark
Original Message
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
From: Drake <drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org>
Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.
At 06:16 PM 6/29/2012, you wrote:
Would it be possible/reasonable to add flashed mounts to the existing array?
Not without reinstalling. There have been no problems with the
existing array's penetrations.
Drake Chamberlin
ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC
OH License 44810
CO license 3773
NABCEP Certifi
Would it be possible/reasonable to add flashed mounts to the existing array?
Jesse
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 29, 2012, at 2:42 PM, Benn At DayStarSolar wrote:
> Drake,
> This won't help with the height issue, but maybe you could trim the flashing
> where it is close to the skylights?
> O
Drake,
This won't help with the height issue, but maybe you could trim the flashing
where it is close to the skylights?
Or is it possible to access the underside of the roof beside the skylight so
you can add a spanner btwn the rafters so you can have room for the flashing?
No answer for the h
Hi Jay,
There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the
skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there
is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done
with L feet only. The new array would be higher.
And given that we have rea
If you have to go down this road of not using flashed penetrations, be very
diligent.
Dan makes a couple of great points make sure the sealant you use is
compatible (and a superior product) for the roof type you are working on,
don't over tighten as that will just damage the shingle further and d
I have had the opportunity in the past few years to learn a lot about good
roofing waterproofing practices according to the national roofers association.
They don't agree that caulk works as the primary means of sealant, which is
what you are doing with an L foot.
And given that we have really
We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple
Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing.
We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard Al
coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This might
be a
Early on I learned to fill the pre drilled hole with a non asphalt eating caulk like geo cell (Or something similar), and then used two layers of a polybutyl tape and stainless hardware. The trick is not to lag down the L-feet so tight that it smooshes out all the poly. You also need to be real car
43 matches
Mail list logo
