I agree with Jeremy about the noise coming from the points where the spokes
cross. A little grease or oil on these crosses should fix it.
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Thanks for the plug, Seth. I've already pre-sold about half of the 100
posters I ordered. These are really going to be gorgeous.
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2011/03/2011-hc-poster.html
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Dish on dynamo hubs is sometimes non-zero. Non-disc SON hubs are symmetric,
but other manufacturers move the right flange inward to leave room for the
wire/plug connection. My personal favorite lotsa-bang-for-the-buck hub is
the Shimano Alfine, which has some dish because of the disc brake mount
I have nothing against professional photographers or exploiting people, but
I am greatly offended by the shameless portrayal of internal gear hubs and
chain guards as sensible for transportation bikes! Both of these cause me
lots of trouble on a daily basis!
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For wheelbuilding purposes, a dished wheel is not much more difficult to build
than a non-dished wheel. You may have two different spoke lengths, but
otherwise the process is the same.
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Well said, Matt. A very stylish former girlfriend, who has little or no
interest in bikes, fell in love with an Electra Amsterdam purely as a fashion
accessory. In the end she decided that spending $500 on a bike was out of the
question (she can buy decent earrings with that kind of money!)
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Cute, and they definitely have panache... But for stopping power, I'll be
using $15 Tektro v-brakes :)
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A small square of electrical tape over the speed display?
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Most shops will have something like a 700x35-45 tubes that work great in a
700x50 and cost much less than a "29'er" tube. I'm brand-agnostic. I usually
use Kenda or QBP brand tubes, which are cheap and seem fine to me. I'm not
sure what Schwalbe tubes offer to justify the higher price and genera
One of the bikes is a Hillborne:
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2013/08/some-pre-owned-bikes-for-sale.html
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I agree with everything Doug said. Traveling with a bike is a hassle and
expensive. Shipping a bike is easier, if not cheaper. You might also consider
shipping via Amtrak. While not necessarily cheaper, the Amtrak boxes are huge
and don't require much disassembly of the bike. You can just go to
The 559 MTB world is getting smaller. I hear some fairly large MTB
companies are more or less pulling the plug on 559. Santa Cruz comes to
mind.
Jim
On Thursday, August 22, 2013 12:14:48 PM UTC-5, William wrote:
>
> Pacenti is apparently getting out of the 26" rim business. All their 559
> ri
With respect to Alex Wetmore, I personally find this kind of blanket
condemnation based on a single example to be both misleading and irritating
(and ubiquitous on the internet). I've been selling and personally using
the 770/780 series XT hubs with the aluminum axles since they were
introduced
And I should point out that bike parts often have a hard life. Expecting a
zero percent failure rate is unreasonable.
On Thursday, August 22, 2013 2:52:34 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
>
> With respect to Alex Wetmore, I personally find this kind of blanket
> condemnat
The 2 MSP options combined tally more than the single SF option. Maybe
there should be a run-off vote for the leading MSP date vs the SFO date.
On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:13:18 PM UTC-5, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> The poll has always had the SF/China Camp option leading. Right now,
> among thos
height at
73 cm.
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 2:27:51 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha
Cyclery wrote:
>
> I've had this frame for a few years, and had it built in several
> configurations, mostly as some kind of touring bike or fat tire rambling
> bike. The original red paint
I've had this frame for a few years, and had it built in several
configurations, mostly as some kind of touring bike or fat tire rambling
bike. The original red paint didn't hold up, so I had it powdercoated "nut
green" just over a year ago. The powdercoat is in mostly great shape with a
little
I should point out that this is a partly lugged, partly fillet-brazed
frame. The seat-tube cluster and fork crown are lugged. Everything else is
fillet-btazed.
On Thursday, September 12, 2013 2:27:51 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha
Cyclery wrote:
>
> I've had this frame for a few yea
t a tall frame with 26"
> wheels and fat tires..
>
>
> On Thursday, September 12, 2013 2:27:51 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha
> Cyclery wrote:
>
>> I've had this frame for a few years, and had it built in several
>> configurations, mostly as some kind of tour
somewhat unique
frame, fork, headset, custom taillight, fenders, and brakes, all for $1250,
shipped to your door.
On Friday, September 13, 2013 4:03:16 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha
Cyclery wrote:
>
> Thanks! It really is a sweet-riding loaded touring bike, but also somehow
> feels re
Fortunately, most Rivs are 130 or 135 mm!
On Sunday, September 22, 2013 10:17:47 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Compass Bikes just posted the availability of new Grand Boris branded 5
> and 6 speed cassette hubs for 120mm rear spacing. That's a pretty exciting
> development for a lot of folk
Shawn G is right. I have Amtrak'ed to Whitefish with a bike, and it is as
he has described. My train was about 6 hours late into WFH, though, which
meant getting to my hotel a block from the station at 3am.
On Wednesday, September 18, 2013 1:42:08 PM UTC-5, Shawn Granton wrote:
>
> George (and e
ose things were true, do you think Grant would be designing
> almost exclusively 135mm (Roadeo=130) rear end bikes? Or do you think
> Grant would be saying that narrow Q-factor is valuable and you don't need
> so many cogs? Would Rivendell be selling a 2x5 tenspeed? Or a 3x5
If you're not using racks, then the Krampus will be great. If you think
racks might be part of the equation, the ECR is SWEET. I have one on order.
On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 11:53:30 AM UTC-6, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> Good question. I haven't been able to test ride an ECR. People who
> have
Sold
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Including several that maybe of interest here, namely a 1st gen Sam.
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2014/02/used-bikes-and-frames.html
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I had one of those Gitane mixte tandems that I used in my early kid-crank
tandem experiments. I wouldn't, under any circumstances, ride it with my
wife or any other adult. To say that it had disconcerting flexiness with me
and my then 4-yo daughter would be an understatement.
On Thursday, Febr
Agreed about the Rawland. I was tempted to keep that frame for myself, but I'm
sporting a thicker-than-usual winter pelt this year, and I'm not sure I should
be riding a frame with flexy undersized tubing, haha.
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That sounds like a pretty good idea, but truth be told, road bikes are more of
a theoretical desire for me these days. I really don't have much desire to ride
tires less than 2" wide.
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And I'm somewhat kidding. I'm not THAT heavy. I mostly like to poke some
good-natured fun at the BQ club, planing, etc. And also I like to pick apart
the "oversize tubing" label that has been applied to the tubing diameter that
has become standard in recent decades. (If "oversize" is the current
ly more so than my Rambouilet or Saluki (Which pretty
> much have the same tubing) . I much prefer my road. Vikki however,
> thoroughly loves her bike, so obviously what one rider loves another
> might not.
>
> Bruce
>
> On 2/14/2014 11:52 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wr
Here's the link:
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2014/02/used-bikes-and-frames.html
On Friday, February 14, 2014 5:11:44 PM UTC-6, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
>
> I modified my list, subtracted one, added two bikes/frames. One that I
> added is a lugged steel Singular
I don't want to be negative, but... There are a number of leaps for Riv to
make a 29+ bike while staying true to Riv's philosophy on aesthetics and
commitment to certain types of designs. First, the bike would need to have
disc brakes to use existing wide 622 rims, or a whole new 622x50ish rim
The Pacer/LHT/Cross-check frames from Surly are functionally similar to
several Riv models, past and present. Beyond that, the Surly and Riv
offerings don't have much overlap. Riv has its niche, which has some pretty
clear boundaries. Meanwhile, Surly has spent most of its history giving us
tou
I understand the drool factor. I don't drool for Rivs like I used to, but I get
it. I also understand that Surly doesn't go to great lengths to add visual
pizzazz to their frames. Their beauty is in brilliant ideas and
engineering...things they don't even market, like the Disc Trucker rear
drop
I'm going to get a pair of these and report back.
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It's been 20+ years since "oversized" tubing became the usual size of tubing.
Almost nobody uses the old sizes of tubing anymore. I move that two decades is
enough that we can start just referring to the formerly oversized tubing as
"tubing" or "standard-size tubing" or whatever term makes it so
Seems pretty heavy for the use you describe, though Schwalbe somehow knows how
to make heavy tires that roll fairly well. I'd go with the Supreme in a 40 or
the Racer in 38.
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Almost 10 years ago, I bought a 1991 Waterford Paramount frame. Besides the
sexy pearly metallic red color, the most noticeable thing about the frame was
its True Temper OS stickers. OS was for over-sized. I didn't understand at the
time why they made such a big deal out of the OS tubes when the
As long as we use terms like "standard" and "oversize", there's bound to be
confusion and mistaken ideas. With the sheer variety of not only tubing
diameters, but also wall thicknesses, butting, cross-section shapes, heat
treating options, etc, not to mention a lot of different frame designs, t
I meant derision in the sense that retro-grouches always resist new things,
even when the "new" things have been common and widely accepted for a decade or
two or three. The word "oversize" in this context is almost never used by
somebody who doesn't have a bias toward older bikes.
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I agree and apologize about using the R-word. I don't have anything against
tubing of any diameter. I guess I would caution people not to think it's more
important than it is, but if you can find a frame that meets all your other
targets and also uses smaller size tubing, then go for it, if you
I confess to being a bit of a grouch about this kind of thing. Can you tell?
But it's not about neo/retro grouchiness. To me, working at a bike shop is a
balance between giving my customers what they want and not letting them do
something that is a bad idea or more trouble than it's worth.
At t
I'm sure Boulder is fine, but it's just one option, and it may or may not be
somebody's ideal frame for other reasons. I have encouraged people to look at
the Boulder as an option when they want those features, even though I don't
sell that brand.
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I thought I had enough bikes, but now I'm tempted to build a new bike around a
pair of these tires!
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One Riv and several Riv-ish to some degree. I posted this previously, but have
since updated:
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2014/02/used-bikes-and-frames.html
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I've friction shifted IGH hubs. It "works" sometimes.
On Friday, February 28, 2014 12:07:52 PM UTC-6, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> Since we're talking friction-shifting, I thought I'd ask again (cuz I do
> this periodically): Anyone have any success friction-shifting an
> internal-geared hub? Ye
I dislike categories, but my bike preferences now are definitely in the range
between off-pavement touring bikes and fat bikes. Sold my Surly Disc Trucker
today, which leaves me with a Surly Ogre with 29x2.35 tires as my "road bike".
I also have a Surly ECR and a Moonlander. This all started wit
You might want to get a different bar to go with your brifters. The older style
drop bars like the Nitto noodle, etc, have broad front bends that can interfere
with braking since the shift levers are between the brake lever and the bar.
Not saying you can't do it with a noodle, just that it will
Your Deore derailleur should work ok with 8/9/10sp Shimano STI. You'll of
course need to match the cassette and chain to the rear shifter.
I wouldn't hold out much hope that the front shifter/derailleur will work with
any of the cranks that Riv usually sells. If you have, say, 10sp, you should
Tubeless Hetres ride beautifully. I wouldn't try it on Synergy rims though. Try
it with Stan's rims on a disc brake bike.
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Somewhere out there is a buyer for whom this bike is exactly what he or she
wants. That person will happily pay your most optimistic selling price. I'd
start there.
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I really dislike the term "ghetto tubeless". I have used and generally endorse
the method of this type of improvised tubeless conversion (with certain rims)
and don't see any reason to describe it with a racist term.
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http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2013/02/fat-tire-tubeless-conversions.html?m=1
For a 29x3, 4-6 fl oz of Stan's or Caffelatex.
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The term "ghetto" is used by many as a coded racial term. In any case, the
word's history is not exactly positive for various groups of oppressed people
who've been relegated to living in ghettos. For us to use it as a term for any
improvised or haphazard mechanical solution on our expensive bic
IMO these split-tube conversions don't save weight, but they provide a measure
of puncture resistance. More importantly, I feel that the ride quality is
enhanced because the lack of tube makes the tire effectively more supple.
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Deacon Patrick, you are free to use whatever language you like. My perspective
is that the word "ghetto" used as an adjective in this way is demeaning, and
that we should think twice before casually using the term. In my youth, old
guys would have said "n_-rigged" , which had a similar conno
I understand the nature of the term "field-expedient", but in this case, the
field-expedient approach would be to use a tube!
I had Stan's sealant in the split-tube tubeless tires of my Moonlander for over
a year, including the past winter when our count of below-zero (F) days
numbered at leas
I've been a fan of Tiagra and Alivio parts for years. It's decent looking,
works great, and comparatively cheap (not as cheap as Altus). A lot of bike
people have a psychological barrier to using "entry level" parts, buying into
the hype about climbing the hierarchy to the fancier stuff. When I
If you watch a movie like Ride the Divide or follow Cass Gilbert's blog While
Out Riding, you will see the types of minimalist bike-packing set-ups that are
being popularly marketed now. Personally I like a combination of a Revelate
Sweet Roll, Revelate frame bag, and a large Sackville saddle ba
I will echo what has been said. The cassettes and chains don't matter as long
as they're all 10-sp. SRAM and Shimano road and mountain are the same spacing.
I prefer SRAM or KMC chains and Shimano cassettes. Your 9sp Deore derailleur
should be fine.
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I guess I haven't done that much hike-a-bike stuff. I've mostly ridden on fire
roads and other low-traffic or abandoned roads, rather than fight through
brush. On my local rides, I definitely push/carry my bike through some stuff,
but I'm not usually packing a sackville on those rides.
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If you can determine that the shifters are indeed 9sp, that the
derailleur hanger is not bent, that the derailleur and downtube cable
stop are snug, and that the cable is routed properly under the bb,
then I would check the cable pinch bolt. If the cable runs on the
wrong side of the bolt, it chang
Vertical dropouts are preferred for a variety of reasons already
listed. Also, for indexed shifting, it is necessary to have the hub
axle at a specified point relative to the derailleur hanger. You can
do that with dropout adjuster screws on horizontals, of course, but
that's just another thing to
Some shops may have the WTB Test Ride Program, which is basically a
collection of specially-marked and loaner saddles that you can try
before you buy. We have sold a lot of WTB saddles this way. The two
most popular are the Rocket (narrow-ish) and the Pure (wider, similar
dimensions to a B17). All
I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes.
"Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the
Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of
what kind of handlebar bar you can use with them. My choice would be
to use v-brakes (aka li
Quill stems are a great frustration for me for exactly this reason:
very little selection in terms of rise, clamp diameter, etc. So many
good handlebar options that simply aren't available to those of us who
happen to have a bike with a quill stem. And what seems to be a simple
stem swap becomes an
Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree
that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact,
genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent
improvements for the end-user:
V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantileve
You can also get an adjustable reamer and ream out the steerer, as
needed and not 0.1 mm more.
On Dec 3, 1:53 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> ???!!! You mean that the quill will fit into a French steerer with no
> problem? Thinking about that, I see no reason why it shouldn't; after
> all, you have th
Cleaning out some inventory and raising some cash.
Lightweight 700C/622mm wheelset, all NOS and all silver: Dura-Ace
7800-series hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims (rear drilled off-center), rear
36h, front 32h. Sapim spokes, front spokes are bladed. Includes 10sp 12-27
Shimano cassette. The rims ha
Both sets of 700C wheels are sold.
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I have a 1-1/4" threaded steerer on my Santana tandem. A local bicycle
machinist guy made me a tall quill, diameter 1-1/8" that fits perfectly into
the steerer and fastens with the usual wedge/bolt mechanism. Any 1-1/8"
threadless type stem will clamp onto this quill, which makes for a stem with
Five years ago, we were the sole US supplier of these - it was the first
product we sold at Hiawatha. The original SL100 model works great and I know
of several that are still going after 5 hard years, Minneapolis winters,
etc. The drawback of this model is that when the bike stops, the lights
I have tried the JB Blues on three different bikes, and I disliked how they
felt more than I've ever disliked any tire. Subjective, yes, but I thought
they felt dead and slow. No scientific analysis to back that up. When I went
to Paselas, or in one case some old Conti Top Touring 2000, I percei
+1 on Schwalbe Kojak. I have 1500 hard miles on a set of 26x2 Kojaks, and,
while I did suffer one mysterious flat, they have been wonderful in every
way and show no signs of wearing out anytime soon.
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I have a few nice wheelsets lying around, and I'm also building some new
ones to use up some rim and hub inventory and to pass the time until the
snow melts.
Here's what I have:
700C/622: Velocity Aerohead rims with 36h Shimano T660 (touring version of
LX) rear and 32h Alfine front generator hu
+1 on the descent without brakes article. If I recall, it was a reprint from
a 1970s issue of Bicycling?
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It's been awhile since I installed one of these, but assuming you have the
struts and the fasteners that attach the struts to the rack, I believe all
you need would be some M5 bolts of the appropriate length. Every LBS has M5
bolts. If you don't have the struts, etc, then call Riv.
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650B and 26" wheels are gone, but I still have the 700c wheels. Open to
offers.
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OLD of the rear is 135 mm.
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I have lots of rims. I think they're all interesting.
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"Demand" and people chatting on an internet forum, lamenting a bike that
went out of production for lack of demand, are two very different things...
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It could be argued that some of us have organized our lives around having to
drive everywhere, 30-mile (or more) one-way commutes, living in places where
transportational cycling is simply too difficult or dangerous, etc. That's
the arrangement that many people choose for various reasons, and th
Over the years, there were numerous changes from batch to batch, even among
just Toyo Atlantis frames. Different lugs, different headbadges, different
decals, different braze-ons, different forks, and it seems like tire
clearance possibly improved in later incarnations. I have not seen a
Waterf
I should point out that Peter White is THE wholesaler for many of the German
lighting products, and Rivendell is not the only outfit that sells these
items at the retail level. We at Hiawatha Cyclery have been selling Schmidt
hubs/lights, B&M lights, etc, since we opened our doors five years ago
My favorite is the Schwalbe Kojak. I have been using the 26x2 size, and
think they're wonderful! There is a skinnier one (1.35?), but I haven't
tried it.
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Pretty sure the QBP brand rings are no longer available, but they were
pretty nice. I generally default to Sugino brand rings, but sometimes Salsa.
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I have about 1600 miles on the Kojaks in a variety of non-winter conditions,
including hundreds of miles of gravel, and have not had any issues with
traction. Most of the "tread" on non-knobby tires is cosmetic anyway...lots
of people share these concerns about slick tires, so tire manufacturers
Specifically, what do you need?
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Ron: Thanks for the Dave Moulton article about BB height. Grant has many
times made the case that a bike with a lower BB has some handling advantage,
which I never fully understood, and, since it came from Grant, I never
questioned the wisdom. In recent years, however, I have had quite a bit of
I did this with my early 80s Specialized Stumpjumper, and I concluded it was
a bad idea on that bike. Ultimately, I went back to 26" for the greatly
increased variety of suitable tires. I used the Paul Motolite brakes (not
worth the $$$ IMO), but it could probably be done with other cantilever
Hi Forrest, I have done the Almanzo 100 twice on Schwalbe Kojaks (slicks),
and have done many touring miles of southeastern Minnesota gravel on
Supremes. No problem whatsoever, wet or dry. The only time I want knobbier
tread is when riding wet singletrack with slippery rocks, mud, and tree
root
There is no practical tire width limitation. I have many times run 2" or
bigger tires on rims 24 mm or slightly narrower. If you need rims, I have a
shocking number of 26" 40h rims, mostly Velocity Aeroheat (black) and Sun
RhynoLite (polished silver). I use the 26" RhynoLite on my own touring bi
I wear Old Navy stuff sometimes. It's durable/comfortable enough, usually
looks halfway stylish, and of course, it's really inexpensive. To say that
MUSA shorts are on par with Old Navy quality might not be untrue, or the
insult it is intended/interpreted to be - except that MUSA shorts cost a l
I think Schwalbe makes the Kojak in 26x1.35.
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She visited my shop one day with this bike. Nice young woman, nice
bike. These things stand out around here, and assuming it's not at the
bottom of the river, it is likely to be recovered.
On Sep 17, 11:18 am, Aaron Thomas wrote:
> Grant's daughter's Glorius stolen:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/bl
Wouldn't be my first choice with an Atlantis. As Patrick said, you can
probably make it work with a really long BB, but then the chainline
will likely not be optimal, and whatever narrow Q-factor you may have
hoped for would be thrown out the window. The Atlantis is really best
suited to a triple
Too much is made of "frame fit", IMO, since the frame is only a base
to hang parts on. A theoretically suboptimal frame size can usually be
made to work (and work well) using different stems, saddle offsets,
etc. I have owned and enjoyed bikes from 50 cm to 61 cm (all
"traditional" geometries), th
he full range of stem quill adjustment more closely
> > matches the range of human comfort levels.
>
> This flexibility, and of course the aesthetics, are why I remain a big
> fan of quill stems.
>
> On Sep 23, 10:51 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
>
> wrote:
> > Too
I should also point out that a threadless stem aesthetics can be
improved with expanded geometry, because the frame design renders a
big stack of spacers unnecessary.
On Sep 23, 11:08 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
> Joel, not to stray too far OT, but I disagree. Raising and lowerin
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