I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly.
From: Garth
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Mon, July 26, 2010 5:04:59 PM
Subject: [RBW] Replacement Cantilever Pad Choices
Greetings everyone .. I'm in search of some smooth post
cantilever pads, or even
I have also had good success with Aztecsbut then I've had good
success with Kool Stop Salmons too
Angus
On Jul 27, 4:04 am, Bruce wrote:
> I've had good success with Aztecs, toed in properly.
>
>
> From: Garth
> To: RBW Owners Bunch
> Sent: Mon, July 26
I'm using Tektro CR720s with both Kool Stop Mountain and Thinline
pads. The Mountain pad is much better for these brakes. In the
future, I will only use Thinlines with v-brakes. I believe the
Yokozuna pads have the same compound as Kool Stop.
How about Avid, Jagwire and Ritchey, all good pads or
One more note: If you have only tried smooth-post brakes and pads,
definitely try the CR720s or the Cafams. With threaded-post pads, the
adjustment is completely and causes of squealing are completely
different and you might find that Kool Stop pads work better than all
others. Just a through.
Have had good luck with the Yokozuna pads. Both my Sam Hillborne and
my wife's bike have them right now. I want to say they are different
than Kool Stop as these are supposedly the old Mathauser compound.
Then again Jim Thill at Hiawatha Cyclery has had good luck with stock
Tektro pads. Might w
Both of the bags are sold. Thanks, all!
On Jul 26, 9:45 am, EcoVelo wrote:
> The buyer backed out, so the Country Bag is still available.
>
> Thanks,
> Alan
>
> On Jul 26, 7:55 am, EcoVelo wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hi,
>
> > I have a pair of hard to find Nigel Smythe tweed bags for sale. These
> > are a
Thanks for the tip about the Cafams Ginz. The front and rear studs on
the Bombadil have slightly different depths, I ran into the same
binding problem with one set of my vintage Shimano cantlievers,
rendering them useless.
I need to follow the advice I always give other people .. the only
way
Here are some geometry comparisons of small touring bikes (Riv
Atlantis, Surly LHT, Soma Saga).ETT = Effective Top Tube, SO =
standover in mm, STA = seat tube angle.
Make-and-size ETT SO STA
Atlantis-47cm 520 712 72.5
LHT-46cm515 724 74.5
LHT-42cm50
I would try to find a shop with a 42cm Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT).
If it is a good fit, she could probably cannibalize her Gary Fisher
and end up with a "new" bike in the $400 range. B/B/S (beg/borrow/
steal) any parts that she is missing. I have had good luck with the "i
need this" part pos
On Jul 26, 3:04 pm, Garth wrote:
> Greetings everyone .. I'm in search of some smooth post
> cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
> at least good in if wet.
>
> I was all set to use a NOS pair of Suntour XC Pro canti's for the
> Bombadil, but the low profile'
Earl - If you go with 24" tires like the Red-Line then here's a
bobish alternative:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/bik/1863030284.html
Tire selection is probably abysmal in 24". I'd try to stay with 26"
if you can.
Phil B
On Jul 26, 7:53 pm, Earl Grey wrote:
> My friend has been riding
Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
little step by step way. I'm going to follow along. I want a custom
frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen. The
critical differences will be that I want it 130mm spaced and want it
to be a lighter frameset.
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 1:25 PM, William wrote:
> Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
> little step by step way. I'm going to follow along. I want a custom
> frame that somewhat resembles a 58cm 650B A. Homer Hilsen. The
> critical differences will be that I wa
The bag and cover have been sold.
Steve
On Jul 26, 9:39 pm, stevew wrote:
> I am selling my tweed Big Loafer. It is in used good condition. It
> has seem a little rain, but still looks nice. There is some
> discoloration on the little D rings on the top, the snaps, and on the
> leather straps
I'm in. I want to document my bikes and reconstruct bikes from my past.
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 11:41 AM, Bill Connell wrote:
> On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 1:25 PM, William wrote:
>> Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
>> little step by step way. I'm going to follo
http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443
I have no affiliation with this guy. He apparently got his hands on
some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
panniers. They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5" x 11"
item), but he offers it as a pannier, a sh
This is Jeff Potter, Michigan cyclist and outdoorsman. He's been
active on several lists that have high overlap with this one.
On Tuesday, July 27, 2010, William wrote:
> http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443
>
> I have no affiliation with this guy. He apparently got his hands on
>
That is cool! Modifying Ti is a bit above my pay grade, tho. They
say the make it out of scrap, so I'm guessing small runs. I'll ask
them if they'll do one with a 15 mm open end.
dougP
On Jul 26, 7:54 pm, Horace wrote:
> And it should be made of titanium.
>
> http://www.paragonmachineworks.co
The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
ever had. I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
applying various 'remedies' (Obenauf's on the underside of the
leather, getting some between the rear plate and leather, tightening
and loosening the tension bol
On Jul 27, 2010, at 1:54 PM, William wrote:
http://www.outyourbackdoor.com/article.php?id=443
I have no affiliation with this guy. He apparently got his hands on
some boxish military surplus bags, and offers them modified to be
panniers. They are tiny (maybe not quite big enough for an 8.5"
Seems like a cool guy. I searched on ETSY and somebody is doing
exactly the same thing with exactly the same surplus bags for $114 a
pair plus shipping. I went ahead and bought a pair...$85 shipped.
I'll find some good uses for them.
On Jul 27, 2:20 pm, Tim McNamara wrote:
> On Jul 27, 2010, at
Don't stop at drawing it, build it! I built my first frame this past
spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
nicest frames I've ever ridden!
On Jul 27, 2:25 pm, William wrote:
> Grant is apparently going to teach us how to draw a bike frame in his
> little step by step w
I like doing my own maintenance and fixing my own mechanical problems
on the road. I tend to see dealing with repair problems as part of the
adventure of touring. I also enjoy being of service to other tourers I
meet who are having bike issues. So, because I enjoy wrenching and
being independent of
Pics please!
I'm intrigued by this idea, and will try to follow along if I can make
the time. We often debate the merits of hand drawing versus computer
drawing versus Building Information Modeling in my office. We're using
ArchiCAD for most of our projects now, but sometimes I think about
This was in one of the old Bridgestone catalogs, or perhaps in a BOB
pamphlet for those who have the complete archival collection, it is in
there somewhere. Maybe a bridgestone handout?
I think if you have lots of drafting experience, this is pretty easy.
Lots of framebuilders work from full siz
You might want to play around with BikeCAD, too.
http://www.bikeforest.com/CAD/index.php#
The full-featured version is expensive, but the on-line Java version
is free and quite fun to play with. It can even model 650b wheels
with 42 mm tires!
Bill
On Jul 27, 11:25 am, William wrote:
> Grant i
I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
deraileur. It's a minor annoyance, but I've wondered if the A. Homer
Hilsen will be adequate
On 27 July, 21:40, Peter Andrews wrote:
> The B17 I got just over a year ago is the first Brooks saddle I've
> ever had. I encountered the tedious 'squeak' (creak) for many months,
// //
> I chose the tenacious
> oil over a heavier grease so it could penetrate better. Chain oil
> would penet
Don't have a Hilsen, but have a Sam Hillborne. Also 220 (this year.
Last year was about 240 when the bike arrived.) No problems at all.
Now, the SH is a bit stouter built than the AHH. So there may be a
slight difference. However, I don't think you'll have a problem.
If you purchased through
on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:
> I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
> lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
> hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
> deraileur. It's a minor annoy
Just order it with a thicker downtube and pay the upcharge.
On Jul 27, 2:00 pm, JB wrote:
> I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
> lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
> hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches
I'm currently 266 lbs, down from 280 in June. I have both a 61 Homer
that I ride with Open Pro 32 spoked wheels and tires pumped F60/R90
with 35mm Mara Supremes and a 61 Atlantis that just replaced the 60
Bombadil that was too big for me. The Atlantis has Dyad 36 rims with
50mm Big Apples pumped to
I have a Rambouillet and an Atlantis. The Atlantis is a work horse that can
haul a load and is fun to ride unloaded. I have ridden 200k brevets on it when
my Rambouillet was out of commission. The Rambouillet feels more lively when
unloaded and will always be my first choice for unloaded ridi
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 5:00 PM, JB wrote:
> I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
> lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
> hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
> deraileur. It's a minor annoyance, but I
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 6:55 PM, pruckelshaus wrote:
> Don't stop at drawing it, build it! I built my first frame this past
> spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
> nicest frames I've ever ridden!
>
I realize this is off-topic but Mike Flanigan of ANT bikes in
massach
On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 9:03 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:
> On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 6:55 PM, pruckelshaus wrote:
>> Don't stop at drawing it, build it! I built my first frame this past
>> spring, had a blast, learned a lot, and ended up with one of the
>> nicest frames I've ever ridden!
>>
>
> I realiz
I did this: signed up for a framebuilding class, measured my youngest
son who needed a good road bike, and built a virtual clone of my
Rambouillet. The only change I made
was to increase the fender clearance slightly under the headtube and
the seat stay bridge since my Ram frankly runs at the min
Taken from aboard my Quickbeam (aka "The Quickbeam That Conquered France").
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/4836538284/
--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" gr
Well, my squeaker was the leather at the nose of the saddle rubbing on
the plate that the nose rivets attach to.
I applied a bit of neatsfoot oil to the juncture of the plate with the
leather and voila - No More Squ(C)reaks.
Thanks to all for the many suggestions.
-JimD
...and special t
61
On Jul 27, 8:59 pm, CycloFiend wrote:
> on 7/27/10 2:00 PM, JB at baile...@voyager.net wrote:
>
> > I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
> > lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
> > hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and th
Thanks all,
I'm buying the bike at The Country Bike Shop in Ohio -- they're a
Rivendell dealer. The owner (Dick) was great to work with and spent
all day with me getting the right fit. I tried a number of sizes of
Hillbourns and Hilsens. The second I got on the 61cm Hilsen I knew I
had the righ
Jim's question is key. Frame size matters. Given the same tubing, big
frames flex more than smaller ones. Riv has gone to double TT's to add
stiffness to the larger frame sizes.
I weigh about 210 and I'm pretty athletic. When I stand and pedal
aggressively, I sometimes flex my 64cm Atlantis in the
I took a welding class (Welding for Artists, or something like that)
at the local community college a few years ago and got to try
everything and developed instant respect for the simplest welds in my
life. I got to try both gas and electric and gas brazing and plasma
cutting, and it's on my list.
Oliver: I have the Sackville Shopsack in the Wald. I really like it
and I don't have the rattle issue. I did get a wobble in the front
tire when I reach 27.2 miles per hour. Do you ever get a wobble in
your front tire? Cal M.
On Jul 25, 9:35 pm, "Oliver S." wrote:
> The medium Sackville Shop
Sunday would probably not do for me, unfortunately. Saturday afternoon
is good, if you want to really pack your day. Maybe the next weekend
would be better?
Reid
On Jul 26, 3:53 am, Rene Sterental wrote:
> That's wonderful! We should get together and do a short ride to meet.
> I'm traveling all
I talked a bit with Jeff Potter on a Rivendell ride up Mt Diablo a few
years ago. Really nice guy.
philip
97128
On Jul 27, 3:02 pm, William wrote:
> Seems like a cool guy. I searched on ETSY and somebody is doing
> exactly the same thing with exactly the same surplus bags for $114 a
> pair pl
On Jul 27, 2010, at 4:00 PM, JB wrote:
I've ordered an A. Homer Hilsen. I've got a bit of a worry. At 220
lbs. I presently ride a Trek FX 7.3. Anytime I stand up to power up a
hill, I get flex in the lower seat post and the chain touches the
deraileur. It's a minor annoyance, but I've wonder
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