Another trick that I recently learned while installing the Paul mini-mottos
and touring cantis on my Crust Lighting Bolt Cant (was going to install
them on my QB but decided the LB-C would benefit from them more) is to
loosen the return springs so that I didn't have to work against them. I did
Uh-oh. I am going to have to remove the tires when I reassemble the
Bombadil to adjust the brakes now!
Laing
On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 8:58:46 AM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:
> I agree with Laing, I spend way too much time setting up canti brakes. I
> usually remove the tires and even the fenders w
I agree with Laing, I spend way too much time setting up canti brakes. I
usually remove the tires and even the fenders when installing them. This
allows me to see how well aligned the brake pad is to the rim as Laing has
noted. I prefer to use brake pad holders for this reason, set them up once
That is a pretty good video - he uses the tool to show the 90 degree angle.
He points out that lowering the straddle (making the straddle cable
flatter) results in better braking. He even talks about getting the pads as
close to the arm as possible with the Neo-Retro (wide profile) style
cantil
I found this Path Less Pedaled video useful when I installed the Paul
Touring Cantis on my Atlantis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDdWIq4cLLo
Thanks everyone for your responses and particularly to Laing for that
masterclass on how to set up cantis!
Max who's still rethinking handlebar and d
Remember that flat at the straddle and 90 deg at the arms fight each other
- it is always a compromise.
Laing
On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:41:13 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
> Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it
> through and will read it again slowly,
Laing: Thanks for this detailed and informing overview; I have read it
through and will read it again slowly, but I think I get it: 90* to brake
arm pivots + as flat as possible at straddle, as little toe-in as you can
get by with to prevent squeal, and make sure that the pads meet the rim
brake tr
Geometry is all important with cantilevers. I will use Paul models for
reference. Note that at a certain level, V-brakes are just optimized
cantilevers, so much so that they have too much braking force that must be
reduced at the levers. If maximizing braking force is the be-all, end all
of bra
1. Cantilevers too work better with tires no more than about 60 +/- mm
wide; getting a 3" knobby between the canti bosses (unused; the Monocog
29er has disc brakes and is set up for both) is a hassle, even when they
are soft at 13-15 psi.
2. While I can get decent (my definition may not be yours)
> On Feb 28, 2023, at 12:50, Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> I will say, after running a couple sets of Motolites and most recently
> setting up and riding a pair of Avid V brakes ... the Avids work just as well
> and are even easier to set up. They just lack fanciness.
Jason, curious as to specif
10 matches
Mail list logo
