I'd try the XT M730 Mathew, I have that on my Bomba right now with an Andel
triple, 24/36/44. I also used that Fd with straight arm narrow Sugino AT
triple cranks, so by golly it should work for you too.
On Friday, March 14, 2025 at 12:56:10 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:
> Thanks Garth, my
Thanks Garth, my existing crankset is the stock RBW Silver 173 arms with
44/34/24 rings.
I have these derailleurs (all triples) in my parts bin:
Shimano Deore LX FD-M571
Shimano RX100 FD-A553-ST
Campagnolo Mirage 9-Speed FD4-MIB3C2
Shimano XTR FD-M900 (tested, had issues shifting to high gea
All or most of those derailers should work. I'd like to see a pic of your
current setup, I think there's something screwy going on with how the mech
is mounted/angled.
On Friday, March 14, 2025 at 9:56:10 AM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
> Thanks Garth, my existing crankset is the stock RBW Si
Okay, even if the XT M370 is a 6-speed, will it work with a 9-speed chain?
My understanding is the wider cage means it must travel further to push the
chain onto the outer ring, but in so doing, the cage hits the crank.
> On Mar 14, 2025, at 11:58 AM, Garth wrote:
>
> I'd try the XT M730 Mat
Hello all, I’m having a tough time finding the correct components for my
Appaloosa's drivetrain—specifically, the front derailleur doesn’t like the
Silver crankset.
Here’s the existing setup:
Shifters: Shimano friction, thumb
Cassette: Shimano XT 11-34 9-speed
RD: Shimano Deore RD-M591
Chain: I
Chainrings are good until they don't shift well anymore. Your chain life
seems reasonable to me.
Will
On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 4:01:15 PM UTC-5 Bill Gibson wrote:
> This:
> https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/
>
> Chains seem to easy to test for amount of wear, but cogs and ch
This:
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/
Chains seem to easy to test for amount of wear, but cogs and chainrings?
Skipping in the rear, difficulty shifting in front, but on a
fixed/singlespeed, cog & chainring wear is less of an issue. Chains really
are a maintenance factor.
Bill Gib
As someone who waxed chains for decades -- every ~200 miles for road, ~100
miles for dry, sandy dirt -- until James at Analog convinced me to try the
dry liquid lube "wipe 'n' drip 'n' wipe 'n' wipe more" method -- I'm very
interested in hearing others' experiences with the Silca wax lube.
I used
I probably replace my chains too soon, but riding bulk SRAM 9-speed chains
on fixed drivetrains on pavement but in (high) desert conditions with a lot
of ambient dust, for decades I've been replacing them at about 2K miles.
This 2K has been a constant no matter the cleaning/lubrication regimen:
wax
Chains and other drivetrain components will wear quickly or slowly
depending on lubrication and conditions. There is no rule of thumb for
mileage. Chain lube is a perennial favorite topic, along with tires, etc.
but real progress has been made in the past few years, and much lore of old
is now obso
I am two years and 7300 miles in on my Clem. Chain measure tool indicates I
need a new chain & 38t large chainring on the Silver crank has some
"sharkfining" evident. New chain and chainring will arrive in a few days.
Small ring and cassette look good. What sort of mileage do folks usually
expe
I have a V/O wide double crankset that has 46/26 rings, I'm considering
buying the Shimano, Acera M3020 which is rated to 40 teeth, and matching it
with an 11-40 Shimano 8-speed wide range cassette that Riv sells. I plan to
keep it friction.
The max front difference for the RD is 20 teeth, so 4
Thanks Bruce!
John
On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 12:51 PM Fullylugged
wrote:
> Nice looking bike John. I used that CX-50 to build a New Albion Starling
> for a relative and it is smooth unit, intended for cyclocross so very
> tough. I need a lower gear than you because I have weak old legs. I put a
Nice looking bike John. I used that CX-50 to build a New Albion Starling for a
relative and it is smooth unit, intended for cyclocross so very tough. I need a
lower gear than you because I have weak old legs. I put a Salsa 26 in place of
the stock Campy 30 on a triple and went with an 11-36 re
On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 12:47 PM, velobandit wrote:
> Hi,
> I am about to install Dura Ace down tube shifters and wonder which
> rear derailleur works the best? Of course I plan to use pancake
> cassette. I assume XT with normal pull? Also is 9 speed is feasible
> with this specific set up? Than
I have the XT on one one bike and a Campy Veloce on another. I prefer the feel
of the Campy. Both are very reliable. Both are 9 speed set ups.
>
>From: velobandit
>To: RBW Owners Bunch
>Sent: Monday, May 9, 2011 12:47 PM
>Subject: Re: [RBW] d
You can't really go wrong w/ XT. When you say pancake, what's your largest
cog? If it's only 30, you could run pretty much whatever you want. I have
DA downtube 9 shifters and a DA rear derailer that work fine w/ a 30T low in
back. Compact double up front. If a 32 or 34T cog, then yeah, the XT
Hi,
I am about to install Dura Ace down tube shifters and wonder which
rear derailleur works the best? Of course I plan to use pancake
cassette. I assume XT with normal pull? Also is 9 speed is feasible
with this specific set up? Thanks in advance.
--
You received this message because you are s
Even though this may be a polarizing subject, I'd like to get solid
arguments to answer this question and support a decision:
When I bought my AHH frame, I built it up with the Sram Rival 10 speed
drivetrain I had on my Gunnar. I just bought the Sram aluminum bar-end
shifters and used the other pa
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